Ok I've done s*** loads of homework on engines, but not on turbos. I need to know a few things.

1. Someone a while back posted a link to a page with loads of turbo info on it (forty04 maybe?). Or if anyone else knows of a page like that it would be nice to see it.

2. How the heck do you read the turbo numbers? t3/t4 .54 trim 60 a/e or whatever I see all the time.

3. I'm building a B16A2 right now with forged internals, new skunk2 valve train.Ported head, aftermarket intake, upgraded fuel system, MSD dizzy, stage 2 cams. So I wanna make 300+hp if I can, what turbo should I look into? How big? Maybe more hp if I can

4. When do most turbos spool? RPM wise?

5. Is there any need for an aftermarket crankshaft? I heard the b16 cranks are pretty good.

6. Whats the diff in running 8.5:1 or 9.5:1 pistons? Ya higher and lower comp, but is lower better?

7. Do the tube "ram horn" manis make more power then the log manis?

8. Last, I'm going to get it tuned and all that, but I just wanna know for a daily driver on this build can I run like 15 psi?

Oh ya, I'm not gunna buy a kit, I wanna piece one up.

Alright thanks guys and girls...

 

1. Someone a while back posted a link to a page with loads of turbo info on it (forty04 maybe?). Or if anyone else knows of a page like that it would be nice to see it.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...1.html?#t101_4

2. How the heck do you read the turbo numbers? t3/t4 .54 trim 60 a/e or whatever I see all the time.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=763809
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1023414

3. I'm building a B16A2 right now with forged internals, new skunk2 valve train.Ported head, aftermarket intake, upgraded fuel system, MSD dizzy, stage 2 cams. So I wanna make 300+hp if I can, what turbo should I look into? How big? Maybe more hp if I can

Garrett T3/T4 50 trim is good for 400whp, will do 300 nicely at around 15-18psi.

4. When do most turbos spool? RPM wise?

All completely depends on the size. Some spool almost instantly, others spool much later. The 50trim will spool on your engine aprox 4200-4700RPMs. Depends on things like IC piping, IC size, downpipe diameter, downpipe construction, exhaust size, etc etc etc.

5. Is there any need for an aftermarket crankshaft? I heard the b16 cranks are pretty good.

For 300whp? Hell no, lol. With a B16 you could do it with a stock engine.

6. Whats the diff in running 8.5:1 or 9.5:1 pistons? Ya higher and lower comp, but is lower better?

All lower compression is going to help is your tuner, but any half decent tuner should be able to tune around 9:5:1 pistons. 11:1 and boost is a problem, 9:1 is really no issue.

7. Do the tube "ram horn" manis make more power then the log manis?

Yup, they flow a lot better up top.

8. Last, I'm going to get it tuned and all that, but I just wanna know for a daily driver on this build can I run like 15 psi?

Assuming the tune is good, absolutely.

 

Nice man, thanks, I was hoping you would be the person that answers this.

 

http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html

there is another website about what each part of the turbo kit does, this will be helpful when looking for different parts and what they do.

 

Drop the head port, skunk 2 valvetrain, or any other-than-stock ignition. B16 heads need no porting, you'd be throwing money away to be honest. Skunk 2 valvetrain is junk I've heard. I'm not very familiar with B series parts, as I'm a D guy, but I'm sure Ferrea makes some good stuff for ya. Use Integra Type R, or similar spec cams if you can (torque should carry to around 9k with these cams on a B16).Honda makes great stock ignition, and MSD stuff is known to be problematic on Hondas. Use stock. As for the turbo, I've become a fan of Garret's ball bearing GT series. I've read postive things about Precision turbos as well.

 

What would be better to run in my set up, turbo cams or stage 2 cams?

 

The idea behind "turbo cams" is to provide low duration, soair pressue being injected into the cylinders by the turbo isn't lost during overlap on the intake stroke. However, I've read they're more of a gimmick than anything. The low duration inhibits mid-high rpm scavenging. I've never seen a dyno graph to show how well (or poor) the low duration "turbo cam" actually works, however I've seen plenty of Type R or similar profiles work wonderfully. I would stick to what works. "Stage 2," is going to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so that question is unanswerable with certainty. I'm afraid you'll have to do some actual researchto determine what cam to use. If you can get a genuine Type R (Integra or Civic) camshaft though, do so. The grind is perfect and the quality unquestionable.

 

I'm going to agree with Kedawei on this, save yourself some money on the Skunk2 ****. It's all remanufactured stock parts.[&:]

From what I've seen, a cheap set of good cams would be a set of GSR cams, and then both the Type R cams work wonderfully well. Stay away from Crower cams, they have been known many times to snap in the block. Their valvetrain is great though.

Honestly, 300whp is pretty mild now adays. It has been done a handful of times on a stock B16, and even then to safely achieve that goal would be to drop in Eagle rods and a set of nice turbo pistons (wiseco's, cps, arias, SRPs, etc) along with honda bearings and new pumps etc. Basically just refreshing the block with aftermarket pistons and rods. The head does well by itself, you'd be better off spending the money you're throwing into the block on the correct turbo parts that you're going to need.

Now adays with the new tuning technology out there, a lot of people are finding the limits of the actual parts of the block. Hell, just last year, 200whp on a stock D16 was completely unfeasable. This year it's 250whp, but some people are making almost 300whp on a stock DSERIES! I think right now the highest B16 is in the 400whp range, lol. It's all about how well the car is tuned, with a good tune 600whp can be completely reliable.

 

The highest I've seen is 450. You can do a lot with quality parts, and good tuning.