I got my new car (in the subject) last week and the tires are all inflated to exactly 35 PSI. The doorjam says they should be at 32. I have been having some low MPG issues, but was wondering if I should lower them all down to the spec 32 PSI?

 

Yes, they should be 32 if that what is says in the door jam.

 

Thanks. Figured the answer would be yes.

In other news yesterday I think I messed up my alignment a little bit. I dont know how I could do that with a week old car, maybe I went over a pothole too fast. Dont recall alignments being that sensitive though. Geez! Now I feel I have to have the wheel SLIGHLY to the right or the car goes left ever so sligltly. It's so subtle Im almost imagining it, unlessI look at the wheel and see it not exactly lined up with the steering column.

Ugh. One thing after another.

 

Whats printed on the tag on the door jam is a pressure for the car to be soft fluffy, and comfortable. Honda does't make tires, they make cars. Whats printed on the tire, is what will allow the tire to function, and last as long as poss. My self....I would go with what the tire manufacturer suggest's. You wouldn't think that 2 or 3 lbs. could make a diff. It does. A hot day, your car loaded with friends and "stuff" the tire will cool properly with the correct inflation. Thus, lasting longer!

 

So leave then at the pressure they are set to now? Which I believe is closer to what's on the tire, though I admit sitting here in my room I'm not sure. I'll have to check. Don't tires usually have like a range on them? Or a max PSI?

 

My 225/40/18'2 run at 44lbs. Rides ruff....but sticks like glue, and pushes you face to the glass when high speed cornering.

 

Chalk across the treads and roll the car a few feet to figure out if you get even wear, then adjust the pressure accordingly. There's going to bea range of pressures that wear pretty evenly, say around 32-36PSI. Run on the high side of that range for best mileage and longevity. This is more accurate for your specific operating weight/conditions than the mfr's general guideline figures...or the MAX PSI numbers on the tires.

Take your car back to the dealer for an alignment check. It shouldn't be thrown out of whack that easily. They might have not tightened something (tie-rod adjusters) to spec at the factory.

 

About the alignment, I know they can check it and I have an appointment Saturday. Just dont want to leave my car all day to have it checked. Kind of annoying. But since I work, I cant get it in sooner.

Im trying to still figure out of my alignment even is slightly off. I hope I word this right: Should the steering wheel be straigh with the wheel assembly, like the part the wheel attaches too? Or should the wheel itself just be exactly level when I am going straight? Thats the thing I am having trouble determining. If it's the first thing, the car goes slightly left when I have the wheel perfectly straight based off the wheel assembly.

I feel kind of silly mentioning this, like nothing is even wrong.