Hey what's up all?
I got a few questions hopefully somebody will have an answer to my question. If ur a Tech or just experienced this before. help thanks.

Okay, so I picked up a 96 civic hatchback DX. yes bone stock..
Anyway, when I press on the brakes u have to push it far until it brakes. But I tryed pumping it to see if it would engage before pushing it all the way down to the floor.
I also notice that when I'm stopped and give it a few pumps its normal instead of flooring the brakes to the ground, but after a few seconds u would have to floor the brakes to the ground.
Does anybody have this problem?
I'm thinking I might need to replace my brakes? The brake fluid itself isn't low, but thats what I"m guessing.
So if u can help thanks a bunch.
Just wanted to know before I go spend more money on the car.

 

it seems like you need to bleed the brake fluid out of the system. Sometimes air gets trapped into your brake system which will result in compressing the brake pedal to the floor. Just bleed the brakes to get all the air out and you'll be good as new. Also check for any leaks around your brake lines.

 

Correct. Sounds like air in the brake system. You'll need a buddy to help you with this:

Have him/her sit in the driver seat
Crawl underneath the car and start at whichever side
Have them depress the brake and quickly loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper
Tighten bleeder valve after all fluid dribbles out
Have the person release the break pedal
Repeat 4 or 5 times on each brake system

Make sure you tighten the bleeder valve before the brake pedal is released, or it defeats the purpose. Once done, simply top off the brake fluid resevoir and test the brakes.

 

If the pedal comes back up after pumping the brakes, but goes to the floor later, your master cylinder could be failing. I haven't had one fail in a long time, and they were both on 1970's domestics. Not sure if Honda fails the same way. I drove my 75 Cutlass about a week, that way, but I would not recommend it. Sure enough, the pedal will drop when you really need to stop.

I have not changed one in 15+ years. On a GM, the job wasn't too hard, but you need to bleed the new master and the lines. There is probably a DIY on bleeding the brakes. My dad is a mechanic, so I had lots of guidance and access to all the required tools.

 

As an adder to 7ks comments, if it is just air in the line, and you decide to bleed them, keep an eye on the reservoir level. Don't let it run dry or you will suck air into the system. When bleeding, you're trying to get all the air out. If you can, connect a piece of vacuum hose or a bleeder kit to the bleeder screw. Place the hose in a coffee can or a bowl or whatever. As you bleed the lines, air will be forced from the lines and you can see bubbles in the can. No more bubbles and a firm pedal means you're done.

Also, careful with the bleeder screws if they are rusted. They break real easy.

 

could be air in the lines or could be a faulty master cylinder. a sure way of knowing the MC is going bad is if u come to a complete stop and hold the brake pedal steady, if it begins to sink to the floor slowing while still applying pressure, then the MC is bad and needs to be replace ASAP.

 

okay, I will try bleeding it out and see if that will work and if not ya I'll replace the MC.
Thanks a bunch.

 

I'll let u all know when I get it done.

 

Okay I bleed the front disc today. Made the braking engaged better, but gonna have to do the rear drums. And see if that makes it better.
If not then I would have to replace the master cylinder correct? Cuz I looked at the front disc pads today and they are pretty new. Both sides.
Is replacing the MC hard?

 

u bled the front but not the rear? ur supposed to bleed the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. i'd bleed the system again then see how it feels.