so confusing
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HCF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: ohio
so confusing
so i need some new suspension. i know this questions been asked alot, but what should i get. i dont really plan on driving in the winter, but it would be nice to be able to if needed. so would coilovers be better? or does it not really matter? and what brand. im not looking for top of the line stuff, but i dont want to cheap out.. thanks guys
HCF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,428
From: Pueblo, CO
How much of a drop are you looking for IF you got springs? If you go with coils i'd suggest Function Form Type 1's, They are a cheap coilovers and are VERY popular on some other forums.... No bad reviews on them that I have heard, 600$ for full coils cant be beaten.
Super Cereal Admin
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,081
From: Lexington, KY
Really, as far as coil springs and coilovers go, one isn't really "better" than the other; if properly utilized, they'll both be equally effective. Now, of course, that's from a performance standpoint.
If you want any sort of adjustability (whether it's to alter the ride height to be able to drive in areas or conditions you wouldn't be able to at a lower ride height or just to fine tune the ride height to exactly where you want it), go with coilovers. If you just want a small drop and don't care about being able to tweak the ride height, go with lowering springs. Lowering springs are generally cheaper than coilovers. Personally, I prefer coilovers over lowering springs, but I don't know of any lowering springs that drop a car to where I'd want it (my old civic was basically sitting on the ground).
If you want a modest drop (~2"), the general consensus is Tein S-Tech springs and Tokico HP "Blues".
If you do want coilovers, I've heard very good things about standard-rate Ground Control coilovers with Koni "yellow" struts. I can vouch for GC's being amazing for the price, but I've never run them with Konis. I had my car dropped ~3"f/~3.5"r with KYB AGX struts and ended up replacing one of them every 12 months; they just couldn't handle the drop.
Hope this helps a little.
If you want any sort of adjustability (whether it's to alter the ride height to be able to drive in areas or conditions you wouldn't be able to at a lower ride height or just to fine tune the ride height to exactly where you want it), go with coilovers. If you just want a small drop and don't care about being able to tweak the ride height, go with lowering springs. Lowering springs are generally cheaper than coilovers. Personally, I prefer coilovers over lowering springs, but I don't know of any lowering springs that drop a car to where I'd want it (my old civic was basically sitting on the ground).
If you want a modest drop (~2"), the general consensus is Tein S-Tech springs and Tokico HP "Blues".
If you do want coilovers, I've heard very good things about standard-rate Ground Control coilovers with Koni "yellow" struts. I can vouch for GC's being amazing for the price, but I've never run them with Konis. I had my car dropped ~3"f/~3.5"r with KYB AGX struts and ended up replacing one of them every 12 months; they just couldn't handle the drop.
Hope this helps a little.
Thread Starter
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HCF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: ohio
Super Cereal Admin
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,081
From: Lexington, KY
Yes sir 
Depending on the age and condition of the car, you may have an issue with any of the three bolts going through the rear LCAs (three on each side for a total of six). They tend to seize up in the metal collar inside the bushings making for a real PITA. Basically, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get four new LCA bolts, four new LCA nuts, both strut-mount bolts, and new bushings for everything. When I did my suspension I figured it was a good time to change them out for polyurethane ones. I believe it was around $100 for all six bushings, six bolts, and four nuts. That being said, my car was a '94 EX that had spent its entire life in PA.
Depending on the age and condition of the car, you may have an issue with any of the three bolts going through the rear LCAs (three on each side for a total of six). They tend to seize up in the metal collar inside the bushings making for a real PITA. Basically, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get four new LCA bolts, four new LCA nuts, both strut-mount bolts, and new bushings for everything. When I did my suspension I figured it was a good time to change them out for polyurethane ones. I believe it was around $100 for all six bushings, six bolts, and four nuts. That being said, my car was a '94 EX that had spent its entire life in PA.
Super Cereal Admin
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,081
From: Lexington, KY
The front suspension is rarely a problem. The thing about the rear suspension is the front wheels tend to kick water and everything up onto the rear suspension.
As far as I know, there's no kit for the bolts. I just went to a honda dealer and got the bolts and nuts there. You'd just have to ask for four rear LCA nuts, four rear LCA bolts, and two rear strut-mount bolts (you may want to have your VIN # handy. If not, they should be able to look the parts up generically using make/model/year). For the bushings, I got an Energy Suspension rear strut bushing kit and a rear LCA bushing kit from the same company (ordered from Summit Racing).
Just be aware that you may or may not have problems with the rear suspension. There's no guarantee you will and no guarantee you won't... but I'd rather be prepared with new bolts and bushings than be SOL should I have a problem
As far as I know, there's no kit for the bolts. I just went to a honda dealer and got the bolts and nuts there. You'd just have to ask for four rear LCA nuts, four rear LCA bolts, and two rear strut-mount bolts (you may want to have your VIN # handy. If not, they should be able to look the parts up generically using make/model/year). For the bushings, I got an Energy Suspension rear strut bushing kit and a rear LCA bushing kit from the same company (ordered from Summit Racing).
Just be aware that you may or may not have problems with the rear suspension. There's no guarantee you will and no guarantee you won't... but I'd rather be prepared with new bolts and bushings than be SOL should I have a problem
Thread Starter
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HCF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: ohio
alright thank you a bunch, this made things so much simpler.. oh and on the car now theres some crappy coilovers on the rear, but on the driver side back the top of the tire is kicked in alot. do you think anything is bent? the guys who i got the car from were kind of...messed up. hah. thanks again
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