I'm preparing to put integra rear disc brakes on my civic. I've already salvaged the parts from a local yard but had trouble removing the 14mm bolt holding the trailing arm to the lower arm. I ended up just cutting the lower arm to get the parts home.

*wacky hyjincks later*

After some love with a sawzall, I'm down to the inside metal of the bushing and the shaft of the bolt going through that and the threads on the trailing arm. The bolt is really locked on to the inside of the bushing. If I wasn't holding a exploded view of the assembly I'd swear the parts were welded together. I'm currently soaking it in PB without much luck.

any tips?

 

I don't quite follow... are you cutting through the whole arm??!? Or just the bolt?

 

what the fukkkk u dont cut anything ... well maybe its okay to cut thw lower control arm but ..n ooo !!lolz

 

ya im wondering the same thing as kappa, which is it that you are cutting, if you are trying to get the bolt out, just use ALOT of wd-40 or somthing stronger, and if you have air tools available use quick short bursts with an impact so that way you dont break the bolt

 

I cut the lower arm back at the salvage yard just to get everything home. I then cut away the end of the lower arm and the rubber of the bushing. Now I'm trying to remove the bolt from the threaded portion of the trailing arm. I'm currently soaking it in PB, which is something like WD-40 on steroids. If that and a torch doesn't work, I'll be cranky.


*20 minutes later*

It worked! the inner sleeve of the bushing is still stuck to the bolt, but the bolt is out of the trailing arm! [sm=bustedsign.gif]

 

I am not sure what bolt you are refering too exactly...but I did the swap, and almost all the bolts were bound up on my car as well.

I had to buy new rear control arm bushings (the big huge ones) and burn the oem ones out with a torch because they are not supposed to be replaced but I found some aftermarket ones that worked.

I also broke off a bolt that was treaded in to the chassis right under the back seat, I tried to drill that out but ended up breaking out the whole thing that it was threaded into and replacing it with a big bolt and washers.

If your car is not from down south where it doesnt snow, this swap is a total BITCH. when I did my car it all started cause I was replacing my suspension with the tokico illumina advanced control kit (shocks struts & springs). after breaking multiple bolts and a bunch of crap going real bad, I decided it was a good time to do the swap.

If you get the upgraded master cyl, and brake booster, make sure you get the original brake lines that went with it between the master cyl and prop valve. I spent more then a week looking for a stupid adapter because the connectors on the rear brakes are a different size and I ended up finding the adapter that was close and grinding and drilling the copper to make it work. SEVERE BITCH!!!

My car stops so much better when i run 17's in the summer now with the whole conversion done, but all said in done I wish I planned ahead alot more and had all the parts in hand before I started.

 

i know my were welded on and had to end up drilling out the whole bolt, but what i did was got a huge breaker bar and put it on the bolt and put all my weight on it and it finaly started to spin, impact was set on 130psi and wouldnt break it loose