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-   -   Automatic shift solenoids (https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/transmission-differential-39/automatic-shift-solenoids-80844/)

Gone in 60 02-09-2010 09:03 AM

Automatic shift solenoids
 
Hi all,
our '98 Civic EX automatic s "flaring" between the one-two shift. I've heard that the shift solenoids can go out on these cars. Looking around the transmission, I see one solenoid on the side of the trans, on the end, near the right front wheel, and another on top of the transmission. Since the solenoids aren't cheap, I want to make sure I replace the right one.

Can someone please tell me which one is the solenoid that controls the shift from first to second gear?

Also, anyone know the cheapest place to get a new one?
Thanks!

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 06:04 AM

bump. Im having the flaring issue as well, would like to know how to fix it

RonJ 03-03-2010 06:10 AM


Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 (Post 700487)
bump. Im having the flaring issue as well, would like to know how to fix it

Any CEL codes? Is the D4 light in the cluster blinking? Is the ATF low?

norbster86 03-03-2010 06:54 AM

Have you tried changing the transmission fluid?

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 07:00 AM

No CEL, I havent noticed any D4 flashing. Fluid is at the Bottom Line (within spec). it flares from 1-2 and a little from 2-3. sometimes it will downshift hard when I brake quickly from higher speeds (35-40mph). fluid is fairly clean, ive drain/filled during last 2 oil changes...about to do it again this week.

RonJ 03-03-2010 07:05 AM

Are you using Honda or Honda-recommended ATF?

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 07:07 AM


Originally Posted by RonJ (Post 700499)
Are you using Honda or Honda-recommended ATF?

Yah the Z-1 or whatever its called. i pay like $6-7 a quart :/. Ive read that these trannys are just bad in general.

btw i have a 98 EX with 114K, if that helps.

RonJ 03-03-2010 08:08 AM

Do the CEL and D4 lights work? If so and the flaring problem is bad, then you may want to look into replacing the tranny.

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 08:30 AM

D4 lights up green and stays green. Ill have to verify the CEL (I have a scan tool). I notice my low fuel light and overheating lights dont work, so theres a chance my CEL doesnt work. its just a matter of replacing bulbs right? (if in fact they dont work?)

RonJ 03-03-2010 08:34 AM


Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 (Post 700518)
Ill have to verify the CEL (I have a scan tool). I notice my low fuel light and overheating lights dont work, so theres a chance my CEL doesnt work. its just a matter of replacing bulbs right? (if in fact they dont work?)

If there's a code, the scan tool should pull it up even if the CEL doesn't work.

Here's how to test the CEL: Turning the key to ON(II) should illuminate the CEL for 2 seconds, if there are no CEL codes.

I'm not sure what an overheating light is? Do you mean low oil pressure light? And the low fuel indicator may not come on until the tank has less than an gallon left.

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 08:39 AM


Originally Posted by RonJ (Post 700521)
If there's a code, the scan tool should pull it up even if the CEL doesn't work.

Here's how to test the CEL: Turning the key to ON(II) should illuminate the CEL for 2 seconds, if there are no CEL codes.

I'm not sure what an overheating light is? Do you mean low oil pressure light? And the low fuel indicator may not come on until the tank has less than an gallon left.

ill verify the CEL later and get back to you. also, i had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and my temp gauge went all the way up to H and no light came on (i thought there is usually a light that comeson when you overheat) i could be wrong. and ive had issues where i couldnt start my car cuz i didnt have enough gas...no fuel light warning. now i dont let it get that low. thanks for your help btw.

RonJ 03-03-2010 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 (Post 700524)
ill verify the CEL later and get back to you. also, i had a radiator leak a few weeks ago and my temp gauge went all the way up to H and no light came on (i thought there is usually a light that comeson when you overheat) i could be wrong. and ive had issues where i couldnt start my car cuz i didnt have enough gas...no fuel light warning. now i dont let it get that low. thanks for your help btw.

There's no overheating warning light. You must watch the dash temp gauge. This is important as severe overheating like you mentioned may destroy the engine.

Low fuel warning light: Ground the warning light wire near the fuel pump above the gas tank. If the dash light does not illuminate, then the dash bulb or wire may be bad. If it lights up, then you may need to replace the sending unit.

norbster86 03-03-2010 09:46 AM

Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.

I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.

Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 02:01 PM


Originally Posted by norbster86 (Post 700540)
Regardless of the code you get on the transmission. It could be cheaper to replace the transmission than buying a shift solenoid which may or may not fix the flaring.

I've seen automatic transmissions on craigslist for 50 bucks. If you replace it yourself you just saved 100 bucks, assuming a solenoid is $150.

Drive it nicely until you can find a used transmission. Then swap it out.

really? for $50? lol. even so, its probably gonna be a "bad" tranny...with the same problem. then I would have spent all that time. ill check it out. maybe I can get a used Shift Solenoid that works. im gonna see if i can pull any codes in a bit.

HeyMelo27 03-03-2010 04:20 PM

CEL works. Ill see what happens after i change the tranny fluid again this weekend. Doing oil change, spark plugs and rear brakes also.

norbster86 03-03-2010 05:15 PM

The CEL turns on for 2 seconds and then stays off while the car is running?

That means the ECU is getting the proper readings from the shift solenoid. Changing the fluid could help it. I've heard of it taking a couple times for it to snap out of it.

Otherwise, it's probably time to start looking for a transmission.

HeyMelo27 03-04-2010 05:44 AM

yah CEL physically works, i even hooked up my scan tool and there were no pending codes or anything. would doing an idle relearn after a flush do anything?

norbster86 03-04-2010 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 (Post 700735)
yah CEL physically works, i even hooked up my scan tool and there were no pending codes or anything. would doing an idle relearn after a flush do anything?

Short story: no.

JasonZcuda 03-01-2012 09:18 PM

LAte to the party...
 
OK so I bought a used 96 civic DX with Automatic tranny & this forum is very helpful. Thank you to everyone who participates with helping us!!
Now the problem is similar to others.. so I have taken off the shift solenoid & the wire mesh was clean & the tranny oil was changed a week ago or so. I am about to take off the Linear solenoid & clean it. Since there is no screen and just the valve holes etc.. When I check the solenoid by connecting power to the leads... is it ok to use a direct connection to the battery??? No danger to damaging the solenoid?!! If it does move the valves what can I use to clean the holes etc??
Since the tranny fluid (HONDA FLUID) is still kind of new can I drain it into a clean container then filter it through ... say a coffee filter to catch any metal shavings or dirt etc then reinstall the fluid??
The last time I changed the fluid it did help the shifting but, I still get a delay in the shifting into overdrive on the freeway & the delayed shift from 2-3 does not happen as often as it did before the fluid change. Thanks in advance everyone!! Jason :cool:

Sean92 01-23-2017 10:31 AM

2007 Honda Civic Ex
 

Originally Posted by HeyMelo27 (Post 700498)
No CEL, I havent noticed any D4 flashing. Fluid is at the Bottom Line (within spec). it flares from 1-2 and a little from 2-3. sometimes it will downshift hard when I brake quickly from higher speeds (35-40mph). fluid is fairly clean, ive drain/filled during last 2 oil changes...about to do it again this week.

Im having the same problem (hard downshift when braking quickly) it only does it between 35-40mph. I also hear a clunk/pull sometimes when I slow down to almost a complete stop and than accelerate. Did you solve your cars problem?


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