Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat - WONT START, BET YOU CANT ANSWER

1991 HONDA CRX DX DUAL PORT FI D-15

Ok here it goes. New fuel tank, fuel pump,fuel filter, injectors, distributor rebuilt, fuel hoses from filter, pressure releif valve, intake, exaust manifold, spark plugs and wires, battery, main relay, checked every fuse and relay (i think i got them all) .
Fuel leaves tank to filter from filter to injectors with good pressure. Ijectors are getting power (checked with test light) but still no start. Dump fuel into throttle body ......starts and runs. Car sat in field for 1 1/2 years.Oil was still gold! Runs great if pour gasin the throttle body.
Need ideas before becomes $100,000 dollar crx.http://www.hondacivicforum.com/image/s6.gif

(My wild speculation) Does the engine continue to run normally after pouring gas into the throttle body or does it sputter to a stop thereafter? Either way, it could be a problem with the throttle body not supplying an adequate amount of air during normal starting (e.g., throttle angle is off)?

Does the CEL come on when the car is running?

Seems to run ok after but just for about 4-5 seconds and then shuts off

what do i do, and im sorry i dont know what you mean by CEL

maybe eacv or idle air control?

Does the Check Engine Light remain ON rather than turn OFF with the ignition in the ON position. If so, you may have a Trouble Code stored in the car's computer. This code might guide you toward a faulty component(s).

computer just blinks once when starting then no code. havent noticed the cel but will look at in morning. have heard one of the first thing to check is the eacv but havent. working by myself so drop fuel in and jump in and start. runs fine for acouple and then out of fuel so shuts off but sounds fine.

ran out side to check. cel stays on when turn key to on, not trying to crank

Please read this post.

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_509898/tm.htm

It will tell you how to read the CEL code(s). Be aware that more than one CEL code may be stored in the computer, so you will need to watch the blinking light pattern for an extended period of time until the blinking pattern repeats itself. If indeed the computer blinks a repeating code of 1, then I think you have an oxygen sensor problem. It's possible that a faulty oxygen sensor/circuit could cause starting problems, but I am not absolutely sure.

As the car sat for a long period of time outside, you also must consider that certain circuits or even the ECU is faulty, although this may become evident upon reading the CEL codes. Inspect the ECU for any signs of short circuiting (e.g., burned areas). Hopefully, the codes will provide important new information, which I think will turn out to involve faults in the air intake system.

Go here to interpret the CEL codes you retrieve from the ECU computer:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php

Please post your findings to obtain additional feedback.

have you ever checked to make sure that the injectors are actually actuating? seems like you have checked everything else. easy way is to just jump the wires and listen for and audible click. check with your specific car to see how exactly to do this cuze i cant remember, but i think its a ground that does it. its really soft...but you can hear them. ummm.....if your crank position sensor isnt hooked up the ecu dosnt know when to fire the injectors so check that if they arnt doing anything but probobly isnt it because u said thetest light worked. ive never had to deal with it but i know some injectors need a certain resistance to operate, might wanna look into that. sounds like your timing is good since it runs for a few seconds then dies. make sure your plug wires are in the right order....1-3-4-2 is the firing order. normally bottom left terminal on the distributor is number one then it goes clockwise around the dist. from there. well thats all i can think of....hopefully something helps. something tells me its the injectors themselves. but like it was stated in the previous post, the cel code will probobly tell all. good luck

I assume the fuel itself is new too. If you have even a little old oxidized gas in the tank it will be very hard to start.

If your MAP sensor is bad the ECU won't be able to inject the proper amount of fuel and it won't run. Make sure the hose from the manifold to the sensor is hooked up. Pretty common for mice to chew thru hoses and even wires while a car is parked in a field. May or may not get a code for that. The sensor is kind of a costly part to replace on a whim.

I agree with the others, injectors may be stuck or clogged. You should check the fuel pressure with a gauge rather than just calling it "good". Another test not quite as good is to disconnect the fuel return hose and see if gas flows out of it. If it does that means there's enough pressure to open the regulator and presumably meet specified pressure though the regulator could be bad.

Another possibility might be a massive vacuum leak, for example the brake booster.

Finally don't get caught up assuming that new parts are good. At some point it is useful to forget all asumptions you have made and step back and check everything again.

Make sure all tires have 32 lbs air pressure.

well are you SURE the distributor cap and button are all good... and that spring inside the cap isnt bent or fell out... if not it wont have spark....
i had that problem when i droped another motor.... wouldnt start up and run for to long at all... turned out the distributor cap was coroded..... replaced the cap and button and made sure the spring was clean, tho had to wait till next day cause i flooded the motor, and next day it fired right up with no delay....


i was so pissed off after i did all that work for it not to fire up so i know how frustrating it can be when just buying new parts doesnt do it!

dont give up just try to track it down....
i was so frustrated i was about to sell the car AS-IS for just the money i had in it but i stuck with it and held off.... and o man boy would i have been pissed off if i sold it and the guy said it just needed a new distributor cap and button.LOL

high possibility could be timing.

UPDATE....... New ECU still no start. chech engine light goes out after a couple seconds like it should.
Pour gas in starts sputers for a couple seconds runs a couple seconds then shuts off . Oh by the gas gas is NEW in new tank and in can using to feed.

would'nt timing just make run badly but still start?

Depends on how far off it is. Usually you get backfiring (and not starting) when the timing is way off.

It's not hard to take the upper timing cover off (will need to loosen the valve cover because it hooks underneath) and turn the crank to TDC and check if the marks on the cam are in the right place. Then take the dizzy cap off and make sure the rotor points to wire #1.

Edit: But reviewing the rest of the thread since you can pour gas in the intake and get a reasonably normal run, the sparks are close to properly timed. You need to find out why it isn't getting any fuel. After a few attempts to start, check if the ECU has set any codes.

No codes. blinks once when turn the key and then check light goes off and try to crank. Check after try to crank and no blink.gets fuel (took outt injectors and fuel pours in uper and lower) gets fire to injectors (used test light) still no crank.

ok, fun, yet kinda risky troubleshooting procedure. put everything together then take out your sparkplugs. using a flashlight, look down the hole while you have someone cranking it. two things to look for. a. is there actually fuel comming out of the injectors. b. is it injecting it at the correct point.other than that...im lost

Dual point injection there in throttle body itself. Yhis maybe stupid to do but what if i pull the primary injector (bought used so may have got ripped off) and have someone crank car to see first hand if clicks instead of just listening?
Pour fuel in it cranks right? so fuel cant be getting to throdle body right? thats the only thing thats stopping from running is fuel to body right?
Ive got the gun i just havent put bullets in it yet

i think your on the right track.

I hate to ask, but did you remove ALL of the line blocks from the fuel pump, filter, lines, etc. when you installed them? Just checking - that would block your flow. Is the filter in backwards by any chance?

Try cranking it after opening the fuel tank by removing the cap. Having too much back pressure could prevent the fuel system from operating properly as well.

Simple stuff can be the most difficult to track down sometimes.

Could be genius. Pulled injctor witch fires perfectly, while turning the engine (with paper towel in hole) engine started and ran but stopped because flow stoped. Every now and then flow would start again by blowing through hose.
Put 5 gallons in tank when replaced but must not be enought to create prime that is consistant. Also may have over tightened gas tank to tilt up at fuel pump side that makes it shallower than supposed to be.
Will repost later when go get gas tomorrow and loosen tank about a 1/2 to 1 inch.

PUT GUN UP

LAST POST! RUNS! Its allways the simple stuff. Filed up and pump primed and runs. Thanks to everyone that helped me solve this delima and think through this problem.
Atleast car has all new stuff now and runs great (it better).
Sometimes you just have to take a break step back and think. THANKS AGAIN

Signed,
Still feel like a idot.

lol, yeah priming wouldve helped

congrats though