Trust me, any of the newer model bulds, you won't wanna touch. If you don't believe me, then you can test out the theory on your own, then write a post on how I was correct.

 

If you do touch a bulb, you can clean it off with denatured alcohol.

Changing tire sizes? Use this calculator to find out how wrong your speedometer will be: http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

 

I've been reading around here for the past couple of days, and a potentially huge weight reduction tip seems to not have occured to everyone: reduce your own lard ***. A lot of people easily have an extra 20 pounds sitting around.

 

for faster times, remove the backseat..... Also remove any gaurds or sheilds under the front of the car, like skid paltes and exhaust gaurds, that will save some weight to

 

lowering 60' times at the track on street tires. assuming your still sohc at least you can-
1-preload the passenger side swaybar endlink by placing washers above the lower bushings thus allowing a little more tension on your pass side tire(aiding in traction and mainly works for people with un equal length axles)
2-drop air pressure a little at a time untill you find your sweet spot.
3- loosing the p/s belt helps

 

I have a 93 civic and im thinking about dropping in a h22 with a stage 3 turbo with 880 cc injectors from Rev Hard. i need some opinions on this or the common b18. Rev hard makes a hybrid turbo for this swap thats said to put out 550+ hp. how will this affect the driveability of the car. (Im addin springs, shocks, headers, ST shifter,.....the basics)

 

Youre being way too optimistic about a stock block H22. theres no way it will be anywhere resembling reliable, or easy to drive on the street. thats too much power for a FWD street car, even if the motor could make it reliably. and have you ever driven a car with a clutch that is good for 550 hp? not exactly a good commuter. and have you ever driven a civic with around 250 hp? if not, you have no idea how fast that is. thats more power than you will ever *need* in a civic for a street car. and 160+whp is more than enough to get you into a ton of trouble, really quickly. H22 can be a great motor, But i wouldnt put one into anything but a straight drag car, or maybe under certain circumstances, a circuit racer. but doing general maintenance on an H22 in a civic is near impossible. Theres pretty much no way you can keep AC or PS with an H22 turbo, and youre adding a ton of weight onto the front of the car, esp when you figure in the size of a turbo that will somewhat efficiently make 550 hp. which brings up another point, that size of a turbo will cost you in low-end power, and spool will come on somewhat abruptly. really bad in any kind of inclement weather, and not real great in good weather either.


I have an all-motor B18c1 in my car, making 170+ WHP on a few bolt-ons. stock internals, stock cams. It spins my sticky Dunlops from VTEC changeover to redline. I have some pretty bad traction problems in perfect weather, and first gear will be almost useless drag racing without slicks. 550 is too much for a real street car. (fwd at least)

 

ticking sound from door panels while driving.

OK I have a 2006 LX Sedan and after 1500km it developed a ticking sound from the passenger door panel . It sounded like the glue used to hold the panel to the door was not properly sealed with the panel and so as I drove, the vibration caused the ticking sound. Like when you touch the sticky side of a piece of tape with your finger repeatedly. I solved the problem. I took a bottle of baby powder, and squirted the aerosol of powder in between the little gap that is between the door panel and metal frame of the door. I guess this covered up the tacky side of the glue and the ticking sound dissapeared. I have another problem though...a rattle from the glove box.

 

Own a 92 to 95 with the little flip up cup holder? Is the cup holder useless because the tiny center hinge is broken?

Since my cup holder was unusable, I figured I had nothing to lose. I used a Dremel with 1/8" a drill bit to bore a horizontal hole through the top piece right around where the broken hinge used to attach. I strung a wire tie through it and wrapped it very tight connecting the top and bottom pieces. I was careful to keep the spring where it belongs. Now I have a fully functional cup holder without the hassle of roaming junkyards trying to find a 5th gen Civic with the same color interior.

 

Remember, the DX and LX Honda Civics have the catylitic converter built into the stock header.

If you are going to replace it, you will need to buy a highflow universal cat. No one makes a header for the DX and LX. You need to buy an EX header. It will fit fine considering the Y7 and Y8 engines are exactly the same block wise on the exhaust ports.

The cat will need to be welded into the test pipe. The job should take about an hour tops by a professional and under $100 tops too. It ran me $60.