zerojett's EF Project
#201
Man I've had to deal with some bull with this swap. I'm sure more is to come.
Motor is in.
Machine shop broke a dowel pin for the flywheel. I had to make a replacement. I couldn't find one to buy. I cut a drill bit to size. It worked. Hah.
I started work on the harness...
Mocked up. I need a 6 pin plug to make an injector subharness... And a 50 pin amphenol connector.
More to come...
Motor is in.
Machine shop broke a dowel pin for the flywheel. I had to make a replacement. I couldn't find one to buy. I cut a drill bit to size. It worked. Hah.
I started work on the harness...
Mocked up. I need a 6 pin plug to make an injector subharness... And a 50 pin amphenol connector.
More to come...
#202
I found a DIY for putting a tucked rad in my car. Here's how she is coming along. It's a really simple swap. The rad cost me $100 locally. I've still got to find a plug for one of the holes in the rad.
Here you can see the huge clearance difference. There's no way I could have fit a turbo, or even this header, without this rad.
Right now it is just sitting in there with two holes in the lower rad support. I had to flatten the hood latch bar, remove the vertical support that joins it to the lower support, and finally drill two holes in the lower rad support for the rad to fit in. I found this DIY on realhomemadeturbo, but that guy has an aftermarket crossmember and no lower rad support. I wasn't sure if it would fit to be honest. I got lucky lol.
I've ordered a remote rad filler neck so I can still have a rad cap.
Oh yeah and I installed that heat wrapped header ha ha.
Still way too much to do...
Here you can see the huge clearance difference. There's no way I could have fit a turbo, or even this header, without this rad.
Right now it is just sitting in there with two holes in the lower rad support. I had to flatten the hood latch bar, remove the vertical support that joins it to the lower support, and finally drill two holes in the lower rad support for the rad to fit in. I found this DIY on realhomemadeturbo, but that guy has an aftermarket crossmember and no lower rad support. I wasn't sure if it would fit to be honest. I got lucky lol.
I've ordered a remote rad filler neck so I can still have a rad cap.
Oh yeah and I installed that heat wrapped header ha ha.
Still way too much to do...
#203
So here she is as she sits. I don't know which strut bar I'll run. The blue sorta looks nice because it is so tacky.
I started the B16 up for the first time this weekend. I unplugged the injectors and distributor, cranked it over for a few seconds, hooked it all back up, and started it. Seemed to run fine. Took it for a drive. Temps shot up. Limped it back to the garage. I was pissing coolant the whole way apparently, from the rad cap.
I decided to bleed the coolant lines but I kept getting air bubbles. Big ones. No leaks were to be seen. My coolant was steaming and there was steam coming out of my catch can too. I am scared at this point.
I turn it off and pulled all the spark plugs out. Every single one is coated in black soot.
I look in the cylinders... its wet. Really wet.
So I think I messed up installing the head gasket. I'm going to buy a new one this week, pull the head and get it checked out, clean the mating surfaces, coat the headgasket in permatex copper spray a gasket, and reinstall everything. That's all I can do at this point.
Oh, I figured out my battery cut off switch too. My alarm still works with the cutoff removed. YAY.
Here's a picture of the oil I drained out. I think it looks a little milky.
Every spark plug looks like this.
Freshly repaired drivers seat.
I started the B16 up for the first time this weekend. I unplugged the injectors and distributor, cranked it over for a few seconds, hooked it all back up, and started it. Seemed to run fine. Took it for a drive. Temps shot up. Limped it back to the garage. I was pissing coolant the whole way apparently, from the rad cap.
I decided to bleed the coolant lines but I kept getting air bubbles. Big ones. No leaks were to be seen. My coolant was steaming and there was steam coming out of my catch can too. I am scared at this point.
I turn it off and pulled all the spark plugs out. Every single one is coated in black soot.
I look in the cylinders... its wet. Really wet.
So I think I messed up installing the head gasket. I'm going to buy a new one this week, pull the head and get it checked out, clean the mating surfaces, coat the headgasket in permatex copper spray a gasket, and reinstall everything. That's all I can do at this point.
Oh, I figured out my battery cut off switch too. My alarm still works with the cutoff removed. YAY.
Here's a picture of the oil I drained out. I think it looks a little milky.
Every spark plug looks like this.
Freshly repaired drivers seat.
#207
I installed the HG upside down. I'm not ashamed to say it. I screwed up lol.
I fixed it and sprayed the HG with Permatex Copper Spray A Gasket. No bubbles in the coolant... Didn't overheat either. I don't think my fan is kicking in however... And my driver side axle seal is leaking... but the B16 is alive and kicking.
So I've heard I either need to change the axle seal in the transmission, or get a drivers side DA axle and intermediate shaft. Either option seems easy enough. I know the drivers axle binds a little since I'm using some random male halfshaft/axle combination... I'll try out the DA version, I'm sure there is one at the wrecker.
The B16 pulls a lot harder than the Y8, but not as hard as the H2B.
My traction bar should be here soon, too!!!
I fixed it and sprayed the HG with Permatex Copper Spray A Gasket. No bubbles in the coolant... Didn't overheat either. I don't think my fan is kicking in however... And my driver side axle seal is leaking... but the B16 is alive and kicking.
So I've heard I either need to change the axle seal in the transmission, or get a drivers side DA axle and intermediate shaft. Either option seems easy enough. I know the drivers axle binds a little since I'm using some random male halfshaft/axle combination... I'll try out the DA version, I'm sure there is one at the wrecker.
The B16 pulls a lot harder than the Y8, but not as hard as the H2B.
My traction bar should be here soon, too!!!
#208
After slabbing on a layer of hondabond between the oil pan and gasket, and the gasket and block, torquing it down to spec, my oil pan no longer leaks. Whoop.
After tightening down every single hose clamp, hopefully no more hoses burst off their fittings. Hopefully.
Permatex seal a gasket has done what I wanted it to. Car doesn't smoke and coolant stays bled.
Now this weekend, I need to find a way to stop all the rattles in my car. The solid urethane mounts vibrate everything...
Found out that my $40 "GSR" transmission is actually a grind free LS transmission. I guess that's alright.
I think the next direction for me to go is to convert to hydro clutch...
This weekend I'm planning on driving somewhere for some nice pictures. We will see what happens...!
After tightening down every single hose clamp, hopefully no more hoses burst off their fittings. Hopefully.
Permatex seal a gasket has done what I wanted it to. Car doesn't smoke and coolant stays bled.
Now this weekend, I need to find a way to stop all the rattles in my car. The solid urethane mounts vibrate everything...
Found out that my $40 "GSR" transmission is actually a grind free LS transmission. I guess that's alright.
I think the next direction for me to go is to convert to hydro clutch...
This weekend I'm planning on driving somewhere for some nice pictures. We will see what happens...!
#209
Good to hear it is all up and running again. I wish I could find a replacement LS trans for $40. Also, the teg has filled torque mounts and hasports for the motor and trans. It vibrates alot when cold too lol bcuz race carrrr
#210
I'm pretty well fed up with this motor.
I had taken the head off and re-installed the HG plus I sprayed it with some permatex copper gasket sealer. It worked fine for a while, but now I'm overheating again and leaking oil all over the transmission, a few hundred KM later. I've got maybe 500 or so KM on this motor since rebuild...
I don't even know if a new headgasket would help at this point... but that's all I can really try...
I had taken the head off and re-installed the HG plus I sprayed it with some permatex copper gasket sealer. It worked fine for a while, but now I'm overheating again and leaking oil all over the transmission, a few hundred KM later. I've got maybe 500 or so KM on this motor since rebuild...
I don't even know if a new headgasket would help at this point... but that's all I can really try...