Daytime Running Lights problem
#11
01-02-2009, 02:44 PM
More about DRL
Hi guys. I recently acquired a used '01 Civic, and I think that car suffers from a series of very similar symptoms...
- DRL lit on dashboard
- DRL sign turns off when headlights are switched on (whether high or low beams)
- Blown DRL 10A fuse
- Upon DRL fuse replacement, noise coming from the glove compartment area
- Changed gray DRL relay (RC-5102); no change, same buzzing noise
- Took off the DRL module from under the bottom left of the dash. Took it apart to inspect all solderings. No clear evidence of a cold one, but nonetheless re-soldered a few that didn't look as good as the others. Put everything back into place: same exact scenario.
- Decided to inspect the right headlight bulb: to my surprise, the high beam wire was cut and the bulb itself was cracked in its forward portion. Went back to Canadian Tire (for the 3rd time today!) and bought a new bulb. Replaced it, and I still have the exact same problem!!
I did notice though that the high beam is definitely linked to this problem, since even when the headlights are off, simply having the high beams on (by pressing the steering-mounted lever) turns off both the buzzing sound and DRL sign. Now that I've exhausted all of what I could try today, I'm turning to you guys; maybe someone could shed some light into this (no pun intended!!) Thanks in advance.
- DRL lit on dashboard
- DRL sign turns off when headlights are switched on (whether high or low beams)
- Blown DRL 10A fuse
- Upon DRL fuse replacement, noise coming from the glove compartment area
- Changed gray DRL relay (RC-5102); no change, same buzzing noise
- Took off the DRL module from under the bottom left of the dash. Took it apart to inspect all solderings. No clear evidence of a cold one, but nonetheless re-soldered a few that didn't look as good as the others. Put everything back into place: same exact scenario.
- Decided to inspect the right headlight bulb: to my surprise, the high beam wire was cut and the bulb itself was cracked in its forward portion. Went back to Canadian Tire (for the 3rd time today!) and bought a new bulb. Replaced it, and I still have the exact same problem!!
I did notice though that the high beam is definitely linked to this problem, since even when the headlights are off, simply having the high beams on (by pressing the steering-mounted lever) turns off both the buzzing sound and DRL sign. Now that I've exhausted all of what I could try today, I'm turning to you guys; maybe someone could shed some light into this (no pun intended!!) Thanks in advance.
I don't know if the overheating damages the connectors and wires but it might be a thing to look at closely... There is a goo like substance inside the plugs that looks like computer laptop grease to prevent overheating, it might not be the best grease or it might need some changing.... Thanks to all of you. It's quite helpful to troubleshoot like this.
#12
06-03-2009, 09:36 AM
I just bought an '01 EX and have a similar issue, although both hi and low beams work on both sides, and i haven't noticed a "drl indicator light" within the instrument cluster. it appears to have seperate bulbs in the headlamp assembly that I cannot seem to make come on. The owners manual indicates DRLs on Canadian models only. How can I determine if my car has them, and if so, how are they activated? this car was originally purchased in oregon if that matters.
#14
06-10-2009, 08:07 PM
Buzzing noise
Hey, I had the same problem a week after I bought my 2003 SiR... DRL light was on the dash, and there was that annoying buzzing sound that would go until you turned on your lights.
The problem is easily fixed. Go to Honda a tell them you want the part. It should run you around $60 for it and all you have to do is loosen a bolt under the driver's side of the lower dash and unclip the grey box there. that is the DRL module for Canadian vehicles.
BTW, the reason your lights are screwed up is because Honda wires the Highbeams to run on 1/2 wattage when DRL are on. Check fuses too.
Also, I would google the problem and I'm sure some electrical genius has figured out how to hard-wire a connection on the board, most likely a jumper wire across the two solder points.
The problem is easily fixed. Go to Honda a tell them you want the part. It should run you around $60 for it and all you have to do is loosen a bolt under the driver's side of the lower dash and unclip the grey box there. that is the DRL module for Canadian vehicles.
BTW, the reason your lights are screwed up is because Honda wires the Highbeams to run on 1/2 wattage when DRL are on. Check fuses too.
Also, I would google the problem and I'm sure some electrical genius has figured out how to hard-wire a connection on the board, most likely a jumper wire across the two solder points.
Last edited by 2003SirRyan; 06-10-2009 at 08:09 PM.
#15
06-16-2009, 08:54 AM
Drl
Thanks i'll try that. I read somewhere that the DRL Module on Honda Civic LX are in the glove compartment, that's where the buzzing sound comes from. I'll try to find it and replace it myself when i get the part.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#17
07-06-2009, 05:37 PM
The DRL module, LH under dash, has bad solder joints that cause the DRL Relay (behind the Glove Compartment) to chatter. If the DRL Relay is still chattering then all you need to do is fix the bad solder joints in the DRL Module under the LH dash. If not, this chattering of the DRL relay eventually shorts out the snubber diode across the DRL relay coil which in turn causes the 10A DRL Fuse to blow. Use a 1N4001 (or equiv) diode to fix the DRL relay (watch the band on the diode for polarity), repair the solder joints in the DRL Module, they are very obviously bad, not enough heat on the assembly line. Then replace the fuse and you are good to go.
Last edited by civic2001; 07-06-2009 at 05:42 PM.
#18
07-11-2009, 10:13 PM
Nice work Civic2001. My Honda deal did mention that they have to repair a board, behind my glove box but they would not give me any more info. So I went behind my glove box yesterday to replace my cabin filters and I was looking for the board. I am not sure, but would it be the board with what looks like a couple of relays on it and it is basically directly below the cabin filter doors. If this is the board how do I get to it? I suspect I will have to take that black cover off from underneath the dash. I just want to make sure which board it is, before I start tearing into it. Also I am very surprised that this is not a recall from Honda. DRLs are supposed to be a safety feature, not just a nice to have. When I described my problem to my local Honda dealer, they knew right away what the problem was. So I am willing to bet that this has happened to a lot of Honda Civic owners. I was not willing to pay the $200 quote, and I knew that someone on this forum would have an answer. Thanks again Civic2001. 
#19
07-13-2009, 04:49 PM
The bad solder joints are in the DRL Module left of the steering column under drivers side dash. The DRL relay that might have the bad snubber diode (which then blows the 10Amp DRL fuse) is in a relay behind the glove compartment. As I recall there are 2 - 3 relays side by side and it is one of them. So, if you have not blown the 10 Amp DRL fuse then the DRL relay is still OK. So go to the drivers side, lie on your back and look for a module with markings that I have on another post on this site, but I forget where. If I find it I will come back.....
#20
07-13-2009, 04:58 PM
Here is the full meal deal. This Canadian Civic has a Daytime Running Light Module AND a Daytime Running Light Relay, two different animals. The reason why the 10A fuse was blowing was because of the RELAY, not the MODULE. The problem with the relay is that there is a snubber diode across the COIL IN THE RELAY that was shorted out. I replaced the diode with a 1N4001 to fix the problem. The DRL Module is under the dash to the Left side of the steering wheel. The RELAY is behind the glove compartment on the LEFT side of the Glove Compartment opening. There are two relays on the left, a black and a gray, the gray DRL RELAY is forward of the black relay. You can remove the cover of the DRL Relay to fix, it has the markings "MITSUBA RC-5102". The DRL Module is labeled "MITSUBA RZ-0126". The DRL MOdule also has two relays inside, along with about 50 discrete components, that may or may not have "bad solder joints" in the development progress, which may or may not have contributed to the death of the snubber diode in the DRL RELAY.