On page 19-6 of the 1996-00 factory service manual is says:
"After servicing the rear brake pads or calipers, or the rear brake shoe, loosen the parking brake adjusting nut, start the engine, and depress the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking brake."

Out of curiosity, what is the reason for starting the engine? Would the self-adjusting mechanism work without starting the engine?

 

Starting the engine is so that you can get more force to the brakes because the power brake booster is operational.

Generally you shouldn't have to adjust the parking brake after replacing brake shoes. Test it first before loosening anything.

 

Thanks, mk378. Years ago a mechanic had tightened the parking brake up way more than the 6-9 clicks recommended in the service manual. Although that has loosened up over the years with brake shoe wear, I was curious how to reset it when I do install new shoes.

This time I just disassembled the brakes to clean and lubricate them. My '96 Civic has 112,000 mi and I'm pretty sure these are the original rear brakes. The lubrication was still pretty good. The shoes were about 2.5 mm thick (or more) by eyeball. If I knew how difficult it was going to be to reconnect the upper return spring I would have installed new shoes or just left things alone for another 30K mi.

Any strategy or tool to make that upper return spring easier? I finally used long nose vice grips and a strap around the shoes to keep the wheel cylinder pistons from flying, but that wasn't easy and the spring was defaced a bit.

 

On most cars, the trick is to put the big springs on first and then take the pair of shoes-- with springs already hooked-- and fold them down onto the backing plate, stretching the springs into position. Then hope you can keep it in place while you put the nail pin things together. (Check that there are no preachers or children in the vicinity, because there will be swearing). But I think that is not practical on a Civic unless you take the hub off. Been so long since I messed with it since the shoes on my car are lasting forever too.

 

Your memory is exactly correct that the hub must be removed for the procedure you describe. I would have done that, but the service manual says to replace the spindle nuts if you remove them. My local auto parts chain store charges about $15 + tax for a pair of axle/spindle nuts. Interestingly, some mail order Honda dealers sell a pair for less than $4. Next time I order parts I going to squirrel away some nuts.

I just got done replacing my drive shafts because of split CV boots, and the aftermarket remanufactured axles didn't include nuts.