Hey guys i have a 98 civic DX and im putting in a system and i wanted to know a good place to hook up the amp remore wire. thanks in advance.

Nate

 

Not sure what your asking.

The remote wire is a small 14-16 gauge +12V wire that should connect to the back of your aftermarket head-unit, if it's not labeled, its usualy a dark blue color. It will need to be run through the car, to the amp, wherever you mount it. All amps will have a little connector for that remote wire, just plug it in, and when your head-unit is on, it will turn the amp on and off.

If you are hooking it up to a factory stereo, thats a different process, just let us know what exactly you mean. We will do what we can.

 

yea thats what i was asking. cuz in my other car i ran it off the power antenna. so what your saying is that i need to hook the amp remote wire to the HU remote wire and it will work?

 

Yes, That remote wire comming out of the back of the cd player will work fine. I always use the remote output, I have seen people wire them to the antenna's also, but I rather use the propper hookups for each wire.

If for some reason it wont work let us know.

 

on the wires of your stereo you should hook the remote wire to the blue power antenna wire of an aftermarket stereo or the red wire which hooks to your ignition. You have two hot wires one that is constant and one that is only hot when you turn the key on. You can use that wire that is only hot when the key is on also.

 

to wire in a remote wire for yoru amplifier... you can simply run it off your radios ACC wire... or even the cigerate lighter power wire fi it turns off with the keys like mine....

its nothing special... just gets power to turn the amplifier ON... just be sure its not ALWAYS ON or the amplifier will drain your battery!

just be sure IF YOUR HOOKEN UP YOUR OWN STEREO........ FUSE every wire! including the remote wire along with the amplifiers main power wire next to thier power source! other wise if the wire shorts out or amplifier shorts out it will catch your car on fire realy easily!

 

alright thanks for all the info guys were going to finish it up tomorrow. also what would be the best way to wire up my subs, they are RockfordFosgate punch 10" one is single voice coil, and the other is dual, both 4 ohm, and the amp i have is this one http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1134701343037

 

Afraid that one is out of my hands. I am not sure if it's a good idea to wire up 2 subs with different resistance levels, and voice coil configurations, to the same amp anyway.

If you install the single 4ohm voice coil, and wire it up + to +, and - to -, straight forward, you will get a 4ohm load on the amp, and it will push that one sub with the SVC 200 RMS watts, 400 if bridged at the amp.

If you wire the DVC 4 ohm sub up like here in option 1, you will get a 2ohm load to the amp, and it will push that sub for 250 watts continuious.

If you tried to wire them both up, one sub will be getting more power then the other regardless, and will either distort, or cancle one of them out.

I have never attempted a wire-up like that myself, maybe someone else here knows how to, but I would advise trading one of them for an identical sub, either another SVC 4ohm, or a DVC 4 ohm, so you have a perfect pair. 2 single voice coil, 4 ohm speakers would be ideal, as they can be wired to get alot of power from that amp you have. Maybe e-bay the dual, and buy another single ?

 

ok well heres what happened i bought the subs and the guy accidently gave me the DVC when i was buying the SVC so im going to take it back and get the other SVC. ok then when i do that which option do you think would be best?
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...impedance=SVC4

 

With 2 single voice coil 4ohm subs, option 1 in that link is by far the best, it results in a 2 ohm impedance, which will let your amp push more power, overall it will be about 250 RMS per channel continuious, and you will still have alot of peak power left for super lows and hard hitting mid's.

It should fix you right up. It would probably need a 4 ohm load to bridge saftely, so I would stick with option 1.