Basslink Installation!
well my basslink came yesterday and im installin tomorrow...i hope i can do it!...ahha the guy i boughtt off of on ebay gave me all the wires he used... i took a quick look and there red.... should i use his?... or go get some fresh wires to be safe?....
ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
I think you are referring "line level" input as "Low Pass" a.k.a. RCA inputs
Line Level a.k.a. "High Pass" is what you are refering to "Speaker Level Input" .
I think you are referring "line level" input as "Low Pass" a.k.a. RCA inputs
Line Level a.k.a. "High Pass" is what you are refering to "Speaker Level Input" .
OMG terrible newsssss... when splicing the wire...i snipped it... the original speaker wire goin to the speaker is too short now!.. i have no rear speakerssss... !!! =[ what can i do!?...it was the last step in installin... everything else is done... the ground...everything!..=[ plzzzz helpppp
Read it and weep, folks.......here it is from Infinity themselves:
Designed to deliver low frequencies in virtually any car audio system, BassLink truly has universal appeal. Small in size but big in output, BassLink requires a mere .75 cubic feet of trunk space yet produces enough bass to wake up the neighborhood.
BassLink consists of a 10-inch subwoofer, 10-inch passive radiator and a 200-watt Class D amplifier housed in a rigid polymer enclosure, all carefully engineered to work together as a unique, integrated system. The extremely versatile BassLink accepts both speaker- and line-level inputs, and it provides an internal low-pass filter, proprietary signal processing and abundant amplification.
The BassLink system features a servo-control circuit that continually monitors the voice coil’s position in the magnetic gap and prevents the distortion that occurs when a conventional woofer is overdriven. By integrating cone-excursion information with the instantaneous demands of the music, BassLink can extract loud and deep bass from an enclosure smaller than any before.
BassLink includes a fixed, 2nd-order, high-pass filter that eliminates the possibility of over-excursion below Fb, the resonant (tuned) frequency of the vented box. This allows the excursion-monitoring circuit to focus on the excursion at the more meaningful frequencies at and above Fb. The result is a significant increase in bass output.
User-adjustable controls allow listeners to set the system’s response to achieve optimum performance based on the vehicle’s cabin gain or transfer function. These controls include: a 0- or 180-degree phase switch; a continuously variable electronic low-pass filter that is adjustable between 70 and 100Hz; variable input sensitivity; and Bass EQ that provides for adjustments between +3 and –6dB. BassLink’s frequency response in a typical vehicle is 20 to 100Hz (±3dB), but this varies according to the vehicle and user adjustments. At maximum gain, the system can accept inputs as low as 250mV.
BassLink can accept up to four channels of input – to provide nonfading bass – either from line-level signals through four RCA jacks or from high-level signals through a pair of Molex connectors, allowing BassLink to be easily connected to OEM systems. If using the speaker-level inputs, an audio-sense circuit will turn on the amplifier whenever a signal is present. If the RCAs are used, a 12-volt, remote-turn-on lead is required. The system has barrier strip connections for power, ground and remote turn-on.
Okay, Stevie, you're gonna have to try your hardest and cut some insulation off of that "too short" original speaker wire and then splice another piece of wire onto it to lengthen (if needed). The best thing for a newbie installer such as yourself, is to invest in a nice wire stripper that does everything for you and you can't cut the wires anymore. Just make sure whenever you splice a wire, that it ends up being a nice secure joint. The best thing to do for a solid connection is to solder any splice.
Designed to deliver low frequencies in virtually any car audio system, BassLink truly has universal appeal. Small in size but big in output, BassLink requires a mere .75 cubic feet of trunk space yet produces enough bass to wake up the neighborhood.
BassLink consists of a 10-inch subwoofer, 10-inch passive radiator and a 200-watt Class D amplifier housed in a rigid polymer enclosure, all carefully engineered to work together as a unique, integrated system. The extremely versatile BassLink accepts both speaker- and line-level inputs, and it provides an internal low-pass filter, proprietary signal processing and abundant amplification.
The BassLink system features a servo-control circuit that continually monitors the voice coil’s position in the magnetic gap and prevents the distortion that occurs when a conventional woofer is overdriven. By integrating cone-excursion information with the instantaneous demands of the music, BassLink can extract loud and deep bass from an enclosure smaller than any before.
BassLink includes a fixed, 2nd-order, high-pass filter that eliminates the possibility of over-excursion below Fb, the resonant (tuned) frequency of the vented box. This allows the excursion-monitoring circuit to focus on the excursion at the more meaningful frequencies at and above Fb. The result is a significant increase in bass output.
User-adjustable controls allow listeners to set the system’s response to achieve optimum performance based on the vehicle’s cabin gain or transfer function. These controls include: a 0- or 180-degree phase switch; a continuously variable electronic low-pass filter that is adjustable between 70 and 100Hz; variable input sensitivity; and Bass EQ that provides for adjustments between +3 and –6dB. BassLink’s frequency response in a typical vehicle is 20 to 100Hz (±3dB), but this varies according to the vehicle and user adjustments. At maximum gain, the system can accept inputs as low as 250mV.
BassLink can accept up to four channels of input – to provide nonfading bass – either from line-level signals through four RCA jacks or from high-level signals through a pair of Molex connectors, allowing BassLink to be easily connected to OEM systems. If using the speaker-level inputs, an audio-sense circuit will turn on the amplifier whenever a signal is present. If the RCAs are used, a 12-volt, remote-turn-on lead is required. The system has barrier strip connections for power, ground and remote turn-on.
ORIGINAL: steven10
OMG terrible newsssss... when splicing the wire...i snipped it... the original speaker wire goin to the speaker is too short now!.. i have no rear speakerssss... !!! =[ what can i do!?...it was the last step in installin... everything else is done... the ground...everything!..=[ plzzzz helpppp
OMG terrible newsssss... when splicing the wire...i snipped it... the original speaker wire goin to the speaker is too short now!.. i have no rear speakerssss... !!! =[ what can i do!?...it was the last step in installin... everything else is done... the ground...everything!..=[ plzzzz helpppp
so all i have to do is extend it with a piece of speaker wire?... i have extra speaker wire in the one that goes to the basslink.... can i cutt a piece off that to extend?... also.. wats the wiring colors foor the05 ciivic.... blue/yellow? positive? etc.
ORIGINAL: steven10
so all i have to do is extend it with a piece of speaker wire?... i have extra speaker wire in the one that goes to the basslink.... can i cutt a piece off that to extend
so all i have to do is extend it with a piece of speaker wire?... i have extra speaker wire in the one that goes to the basslink.... can i cutt a piece off that to extend
that ****s tighttt! omg...mad props 2 everyone that helped especially maddawg.. man i was callin him foor help at like 11 PM thanks man... i extended it and it is perfect!... thanks so much ever1 that helpedddd


