is there a down side to using more runs of smaller gauge wire. like doing two runs of 4 gauge wire vs one run of 0 gauge wire. or is there a way to run them hidden besides under panels or how hard is it to get 0 gauge to fit under panels.
like i think i could do a run of 4 gauge under each side, or is that not as good as doing one run of 0. so just need some input, sorry if its a noob question.

 

well if space is limited then you would be better off running 1 0 gauge than 2 runs of 4 gauge, and using a power distribution block, I did this for my 2 rockford amps, I ran 1 run of 4 gauge from the battery, fused @ battery, through the firewall grommet and down the passenger side to a distribution block. What kind of power are you running to require 2 runs of 4 gauge? I would look at power requirements first off before doing anything. You can safely run over 1600 watts of power with 4 gauge wire, at that point you are going to need to start looking at upgrading some stuff if you are running that kind of draw consistently and do not bother with a capacitor they are essentially for show, they do not really do anything for you.

 

im just wondering because one of my friends said for two amps one run of 4 gauge was not enough. so im like well ill ask here. i would probably max out with two decent Memphis ams, so about 2000w max but only around 400 rms. or thats what i think they run about. then just upgrade the big 3... and i herd capacitors, which i also dont like, but i herd they help with like head light dimming if that happens to you. right now in my van i have one 760 watt amp with 6 gauge wire. it dims my headlights on bass kicks... which personally i like, it makes me laugh.

 

Dimming headlights when the bass hits is a sign to upgrade the big3, the voltage regulator is not repsonding fast enough to the quick draw, yes caps can help a little bit they are ok for short bursts but the money spent on one is better spent on the big 3 by a long shot, also make sure that the 2 screws in the engine bay that hold the battery wires are tight this can also cause headlight dimm when sitting at idle. 4 gauge wire is fine anything up to 200 amp bursts so do the math 200amps X 12volts = 2400 watts peak, mind you anything overf 100 amps continuous and the battery is going to have a hell of a time keeping up. If you are drawing 400 watts rms then 4 gauge is plenty I have run 2 amps at 400 watts rms each on 4 gauge with no issues. I have been installing car audio for over 15 years now did it professionally for 4, so I know a thing or 2 about car audio. Get a quality kit some kits claim 4 gauge but are not really, if you are running 2000 watts continous I would say to upgrade the battery to a gel cell and a 2nd alternator or upgraded alternator. The most I have every put in was 4 alternators to power the sound and light system in a vehicle, running 0 gauge O.T for the power wires that was a heavy system. I would run 0 gauge if I were going to be doing a high power system like 1200 watts rms. Short of that I would not run 0 gauge.

 

To answer your question directly though there is not really any downside to it, the resistance to current would be roughly the same as 1 run of 0 gauge, I just happen to prefer 1 run for aesthetics as opposed to 2. Usually its cheaper to do 1 run as well. Just make 100% sure its fused as close to the battery as possible and run the wiring through the firewall and that anything going through the firewall has a grommet to protect it. I also loom any wiring in the engine bay for a clean look. Silicone does not make a good form of protection for wiring going through bare metal grommets are the best means of protecting them.