I was looking into buying a ported box for my 10's and seen 2 diff designs, one with a stripe in the middle and another with a stripe for each 10 on the end.
What are the diffrences between the two?

 

the difference is going to be how the port is designed.

On the box with the single port, the 2 ports from the 2 sub chambers combine into one, and the air exits out of the front of the box in one port.

The box with 2 ports has 2 completely separate chambers with their own individual ports.

my logic would lead me to think that the second box would be the better one, because there is no way that the subs can interfere with each other. but I don't really know there is any actual audio difference between the two.

 

Shared chamber is usually the way to go because you can generally knock down up to 20% of the enclosure space that would be required if you go separate. If you are running your subs mono, there is no advantage to going with separate chambers. Then again, how many people run their subs stereo anyhow?

Now, the pitfall of going with a common chamber is you are screwed if you blow a driver. Chances are the enclosure will be too big to continue to pound on your good driver while you are waiting to replace your bad driver.

As for which enclosure is better, it is all install dependent! I find that I generally have to tune the enclosures a little lower than manufacturer specs in order to get deep bass in the Civic. In a bigger vehicle, I can get away with tuning higher because cabin gain will usually make up for the difference.

 

You think I should just save up for 12s until I invest more into my sound system.

I didnt do enough research and got some infinity 10's but i listen to mostly hip hop and want my bass to boom a tad bit more.

 

A pair of RE SE 12s in a properly ported box will do you well. So would a pair of 12" Alpine Type R subwoofers, again in a ported box. Just make sure that you have 500 to 600 watts RMS to deliver to each subwoofer!

Of course, that will create another problem because you will need to upgrade your under hood ground connections as well as your battery and possibly your alternator to support 1,000 to 1,200 watts RMS. I am on a stock alternator with upgraded grounds to 1/0 and a Kinetik battery and my car handles 1,200 watts RMS for the total system with no problems. A friend has a 94 Hatch, 800 watts RMS on a aftermarket, but stock equivalent battery, and he went through 3 alternators last year.

 

try out the 10s first and I would go with the separate ports