no its not the flap...... its the main plastic piece that looks like its suposed to snap into the rear quarter.... but mine just looks like its just flapen around behind thier.... i want to keep moisture outta my trunk so i cannt do that mesh junk..... but im not gonna seal over it cause my amps will have no cooling then...

 

yeah i see where your talking about. there is one on both sides of the trunk?
like i said if anything ill run it back to the batt. nothing wrong with that right? no problems or anything id run into by doing this? seems like the most foolproof way to do it.
gettin a new amp in a week or so...

 

if ya plan on going big then id say run some grounds directly to the battery BUT if your pushen under 1200watts i wouldnt worry about doing that!!!!
i never had any problems with my 1200watt amp with the ground on the bumper suport. BUT only reason i ran 1/0gauge wires ran directly from the battery to amp is cause i plan on upgrading and eventualy if i get another amp ill have to throw a battery back thier.... but if your only runnen 4gauges wire it shouldnt be a problem!!!!!!! to just put them back thier...
BUT one thing i would upgrade is the grounds under the hood... several to do! from battery to body, front drivers side corner ground should definatly be upgraded to at least 4gauge... and i would recomend wiring those grounds directly from the battery and wrap it around the motor... i did mine in 1/0gauge welding cable. its a flat black wire that is just as good as other wiring just not as preaty as some



my wires before i cleaned them up under the hood.LOL tho i still have to to replace my welding cable grounds with some other blue wire to match my other ground wire i have.
tho i will only change the one that runs to my strut bar, and slap some standard black wire loom over the other.... one.. tho the way i have mine ran is from the battery ran to the strut bar and another wire ontop of it... that way to keep the visable wires somewhat hidden and its just as good of a conection being ontop of eachother

 

what size optima is that?

 

the one thats big as F***. LMFAO

D34/78
had it in my truck... and with some midifications to the battery and battery tray.....
i had to cut a small piece of the battery away in front and the back side and flip the plastic tray over and punch out the rubber feet in the middle.

and its still a tight fit BUT with some pushen it can be made to fit
and with all my toys im adding or plan on adding i need all the juice i can get.LOL

 

hah nice. i couldnt find the group size that the honda batt is on optimas site so i guess they dont make that small a battery. but modifications always work. thanks though.

oh. the IAC valve went on my girls car so thats what waas causing the rough idle.

 

they do make a small enough yellow and redtop battery for hondas. tho it is a smaller battery so thiers also less CC amps and reserve power...

but to get the battery to fit you need to take out two small chunks
the one on the front is for clearing the bolt for the front suspension, and the rear for the AC conection hoses. tho verly touches them. so it needed VERY LITTLE TRIMMING!
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...wcables006.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...wcables005.jpg

just so you know what your up to do. realy easy cause on these yellow tops thats just plastic down thier so as long as you stay away from the circle shape parts you shouldnt cut into any vital parts.