Sub(s) aren't working right
i have two 12" alpine subs in a bandpass box, carpeted the whole deal you know..
there are two 300w alpine amps powering them..
i installed everything myself with the help of a friend but one of my subs isn't hitting as hard as the other. it's noticeable just by looking at it..
here's my sorry *** pic of how it's set up;
question is, wtf is wrong with my 2nd sub?

if this pic is any easier, colors aren't the same, hope it makes sense :X
there are two 300w alpine amps powering them..
i installed everything myself with the help of a friend but one of my subs isn't hitting as hard as the other. it's noticeable just by looking at it..
here's my sorry *** pic of how it's set up;
question is, wtf is wrong with my 2nd sub?

if this pic is any easier, colors aren't the same, hope it makes sense :X
Last edited by Dontoh; Apr 11, 2010 at 10:41 AM.
What alpine series subs do you have and are they dual voice coils or single.. also what ohms they suppose to be wired are ?
if you know much about subs and amps you can check out http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
pick how many speakers you have and what ohm and coil they are and it will show you the possible ways to wire up the subs.. hope this helps you
if you know much about subs and amps you can check out http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
pick how many speakers you have and what ohm and coil they are and it will show you the possible ways to wire up the subs.. hope this helps you
alright, dug up what i could..
the subs:
Voice Coil: Dual
RMS Power: 500 W
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm(s)
Power & Sound
Total Peak Power Output: 1500 W
Total RMS Power Output (4 Ohms): 500 W
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm(s)
the amps:
Details:
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
i also read that the amps are NOT bridgeable, could that be the problem? i dont know what the consequences would be
the subs:
Voice Coil: Dual
RMS Power: 500 W
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm(s)
Power & Sound
Total Peak Power Output: 1500 W
Total RMS Power Output (4 Ohms): 500 W
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm(s)
the amps:
Details:
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
i also read that the amps are NOT bridgeable, could that be the problem? i dont know what the consequences would be
Yeah I would find out and then use that site to find out exactly how to wire the subs up. You might not have the subs wired up right inside the box. But at any rate anyone that helps on here will need more information about the subs and if them amps can even be bridged and such but ill check back on here later tonight.
edit... check this site up and match your wiring up and see if you have the subs wired right http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results
edit... check this site up and match your wiring up and see if you have the subs wired right http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results
I don't see how amp #2 is doing anything with no input! You must feed both amps with an RCA input. If your head unit has only one sub output, use a RCA Y connector to split it into two. Head units that have "left" and "right" sub outputs actually feed the same signal to both outputs, so you can use a dual RCA cable to the front of the car and plug one end into each amp. No need to worry about left and right.
Wire the dual voice coils of each sub in parallel to make it a two ohm speaker. Parallel wiring means you connect both + terminals on the speaker together and to the + output of the amp, same for the - side.
Bridging an amp is a way to operate a 2 channel amp as a single channel. Since you have one channel amps in the first place, there's no concept of bridging. Wiring the power, ground, and remote in parallel like you have done is correct-- but don't call it a "bridged" arrangement.
Wire the dual voice coils of each sub in parallel to make it a two ohm speaker. Parallel wiring means you connect both + terminals on the speaker together and to the + output of the amp, same for the - side.
Bridging an amp is a way to operate a 2 channel amp as a single channel. Since you have one channel amps in the first place, there's no concept of bridging. Wiring the power, ground, and remote in parallel like you have done is correct-- but don't call it a "bridged" arrangement.
Yeah I would find out and then use that site to find out exactly how to wire the subs up. You might not have the subs wired up right inside the box. But at any rate anyone that helps on here will need more information about the subs and if them amps can even be bridged and such but ill check back on here later tonight.
edit... check this site up and match your wiring up and see if you have the subs wired right http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results
edit... check this site up and match your wiring up and see if you have the subs wired right http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results
I don't see how amp #2 is doing anything with no input! You must feed both amps with an RCA input. If your head unit has only one sub output, use a RCA Y connector to split it into two. Head units that have "left" and "right" sub outputs actually feed the same signal to both outputs, so you can use a dual RCA cable to the front of the car and plug one end into each amp. No need to worry about left and right.
Wire the dual voice coils of each sub in parallel to make it a two ohm speaker. Parallel wiring means you connect both + terminals on the speaker together and to the + output of the amp, same for the - side.
Bridging an amp is a way to operate a 2 channel amp as a single channel. Since you have one channel amps in the first place, there's no concept of bridging. Wiring the power, ground, and remote in parallel like you have done is correct-- but don't call it a "bridged" arrangement.
Wire the dual voice coils of each sub in parallel to make it a two ohm speaker. Parallel wiring means you connect both + terminals on the speaker together and to the + output of the amp, same for the - side.
Bridging an amp is a way to operate a 2 channel amp as a single channel. Since you have one channel amps in the first place, there's no concept of bridging. Wiring the power, ground, and remote in parallel like you have done is correct-- but don't call it a "bridged" arrangement.
My head unit has 3 RCA ports. "F", "R" and "SW", I'm guessing, front, rear and subwoofer so thats why I was only using one RCA cable.. I had 2 sets of RCAS so I cut them up so I could put one end into the HU and the other end had 2 sets of RCAS- one for each amp.
I guess I misunderstood what bridging meant, but things still aren't working right.
Is there any way to troubleshoot? This is driving me nuts
so my problem is that my sub won't play if it's amp doesn't have rcas?
There is no signal going into the amp, so there will be no power coming out of it. The only reason the sub's cone moves at all is like the other guy said, air pressure from the one that does work since they're in the same box.
What is the model number of your amps? You can go to Alpine's website and download a manual for them.
What is the model number of your amps? You can go to Alpine's website and download a manual for them.
Last edited by mk378; Apr 12, 2010 at 06:32 AM.


