system
theres alot of things u can do. how bad *** you want it to be? how do the speakers in your car already sound? how much are you willing to spend? are you wanting to do all at once or just in pieces?
i can help you out there i have a 1999 honda civic ex. i had a bad *** system and i hit around 147. dbs thats pretty freakin loud.
first things first you need a optima battery. it will produce a better electricity for your i have a red top because the yellow top wasnt available i had to make my fit. i had a 2000 watt amp custom amp from japanand a 15 inch3000 watt sub in a ported box facing the front. i had it tuned around 45 htz so it didnt vibrate as much because let me tell you when your system vibrates alot it will cause damage my electric windows were constantly messing up. i had my sub facing the front with the back seats down. if you want alot of vibration which will sound loud but not actually be loud that i would fire the sub up towards the trunk lid. both boxes i used had 4inch flared aero ports. i had 3/4 inch mdf wood. i didnt use any dynamat, it only helps a tenth of a db. it also all depends on the song you use. if you have any more questions than let me know i can help . if you want a 15inch sub i can get one to you for 110 bucks. its a power acoustik dual 4ohm p2 2600 watt 15inch sub i can get you a 2600 watt4ohm pyramid amp for 150 bucks all comes with 1 year warranty so for a good setup thats pretty cheap. 150+110= 260 for sub and amp sub retails 120 and amp retails 188.10. if your interested hit me up
if anyone is interested i am an audio dealer atgreat prices. IM or call for prices on products rangeing from car audio to car video and neon lighting
first things first you need a optima battery. it will produce a better electricity for your i have a red top because the yellow top wasnt available i had to make my fit. i had a 2000 watt amp custom amp from japanand a 15 inch3000 watt sub in a ported box facing the front. i had it tuned around 45 htz so it didnt vibrate as much because let me tell you when your system vibrates alot it will cause damage my electric windows were constantly messing up. i had my sub facing the front with the back seats down. if you want alot of vibration which will sound loud but not actually be loud that i would fire the sub up towards the trunk lid. both boxes i used had 4inch flared aero ports. i had 3/4 inch mdf wood. i didnt use any dynamat, it only helps a tenth of a db. it also all depends on the song you use. if you have any more questions than let me know i can help . if you want a 15inch sub i can get one to you for 110 bucks. its a power acoustik dual 4ohm p2 2600 watt 15inch sub i can get you a 2600 watt4ohm pyramid amp for 150 bucks all comes with 1 year warranty so for a good setup thats pretty cheap. 150+110= 260 for sub and amp sub retails 120 and amp retails 188.10. if your interested hit me up
if anyone is interested i am an audio dealer atgreat prices. IM or call for prices on products rangeing from car audio to car video and neon lighting
[hr]hey it depends on wat system you want you know mtx's are best and the most expensive but yea
you need a head unit a good head unit at least 50x4
you need tweeters for a good system
you need and expertenal battery charger
and you need at least 2 amps one 4 each woofer if not woofer blow up and dont last long
you need good interior speakers not stock their not good
thats the basic that you need yea at least $600 to a stack that how much you need
you need a head unit a good head unit at least 50x4
you need tweeters for a good system
you need and expertenal battery charger
and you need at least 2 amps one 4 each woofer if not woofer blow up and dont last long
you need good interior speakers not stock their not good
thats the basic that you need yea at least $600 to a stack that how much you need
now hold on mtxs are for sure not the best now they can be your personal favorite but i wont use them now they are a beginner brand but i wont use the mtx tocompete with. you can have a powerful amp on a powerful sub. like a 2500 watt amp on a 15inch 2600 watt sub for like 260 bucks. now with that you can have a good system just an after market cd player will sound good on any stock speakers in a car hell mine sounds great will a jvc cplayer 200 watt. and stock speakers . i have a 15inch 3000 watt sub and 2 2,000 watt japan amps. i dont keep the amps up unless i compete which i burp for 20 secs.. any other time i put around 2000 to 2500 watts driving
[hr]MTX are are a personal favorite and they do have some good woofer you cant take that away from them but see you have that woofers but you only use for competing it doesnt matter if it sound good you know it all so has to sound with clearness your woofer are good and very powerful but i dont think chunk wants them to compet he probley wants to just crusise
ROFL!!! Man Gordon JR got me rolling. I hope you don't do installs you don't even deserve to sell car audio.
Man where do I even start. An optima won't provide "better electricity". If your even lucky enough to get one that doesn't **** up, it won't provide "better electricity", it will just have a lil more capacity than your current battery and more CCA. Honestly, for the price a Kinetik 1400/2000 will eat up an Optima **** it out and flush it down the toilet. Second off I will tell you right now your amp, nor your sub is even 2000 watts. Maybe 1,000 if your lucky. I don't even have to ask to know you run a stock alt and prob run like 4 gauge wire. I don't see a stock Honda holding 1,000 watts with just an optima and thats it, so I def knwo your "custom" amp isn't that much power. If you want to see some REAL custom equipment let me know I'll post pics of my TC3hps with RE MT softparts.
Now tuning to 45hz? Are you a competitor cuz nobody in the real world tunes that high. You would blow your subs on almost any song with a lower note, especially with your magical 3,000 watts. And my odds are you don't even use a subsonic filter. Eh probally don't need to cuz your box probally isn't really tuned that high. At least you got one thing right though, facing it in the car does create less rattles. But facing the sub towards the trunk sound louder to the ear. And not because of rattles, because sound waves enlarge as they reflect. Maybe you got this right to, you said 4" aero ports. You would 7.5" of aeroports for a 15" but you would need 4 4" ones to just about get that right.
As for the stuff your trying to sell him, I will give it a real 1,000 watts and watch it blow up. And I bet that amp is lucky to push 600watts.
Also your JVC player isn't 200 watts. I can already guess where you got this from, where it says 50x4 on the box. Yay you can do math. Why don't you get out the volt meter put on a 1khz test tone and see what real power it does. It is probally more like 17x4.
I don't knwo what the deal is with your japan amps, probally some knock off thigns the china man sold you at the fleamarket.
Also a 20 second burp? WTF? A burp is, well a burp, 1-2 seconds at most. 20seconds....**** StreetBeat is 30 seconds on music...
Anyways to the orginal thread starter, please don't listen to this guy. If you would like to get something sounding nice for a decent price send me an e-mail adriandphillips@yahoo.com or hit me up on AIM "the ap kidd" and I will point you in the right direction.
Man where do I even start. An optima won't provide "better electricity". If your even lucky enough to get one that doesn't **** up, it won't provide "better electricity", it will just have a lil more capacity than your current battery and more CCA. Honestly, for the price a Kinetik 1400/2000 will eat up an Optima **** it out and flush it down the toilet. Second off I will tell you right now your amp, nor your sub is even 2000 watts. Maybe 1,000 if your lucky. I don't even have to ask to know you run a stock alt and prob run like 4 gauge wire. I don't see a stock Honda holding 1,000 watts with just an optima and thats it, so I def knwo your "custom" amp isn't that much power. If you want to see some REAL custom equipment let me know I'll post pics of my TC3hps with RE MT softparts.
Now tuning to 45hz? Are you a competitor cuz nobody in the real world tunes that high. You would blow your subs on almost any song with a lower note, especially with your magical 3,000 watts. And my odds are you don't even use a subsonic filter. Eh probally don't need to cuz your box probally isn't really tuned that high. At least you got one thing right though, facing it in the car does create less rattles. But facing the sub towards the trunk sound louder to the ear. And not because of rattles, because sound waves enlarge as they reflect. Maybe you got this right to, you said 4" aero ports. You would 7.5" of aeroports for a 15" but you would need 4 4" ones to just about get that right.
As for the stuff your trying to sell him, I will give it a real 1,000 watts and watch it blow up. And I bet that amp is lucky to push 600watts.
Also your JVC player isn't 200 watts. I can already guess where you got this from, where it says 50x4 on the box. Yay you can do math. Why don't you get out the volt meter put on a 1khz test tone and see what real power it does. It is probally more like 17x4.
I don't knwo what the deal is with your japan amps, probally some knock off thigns the china man sold you at the fleamarket.
Also a 20 second burp? WTF? A burp is, well a burp, 1-2 seconds at most. 20seconds....**** StreetBeat is 30 seconds on music...
Anyways to the orginal thread starter, please don't listen to this guy. If you would like to get something sounding nice for a decent price send me an e-mail adriandphillips@yahoo.com or hit me up on AIM "the ap kidd" and I will point you in the right direction.


