LOL i had a car alarm installed by best buy... and i must say ill never have a shop install anything again!!

and theres always gonna be a better manufacture. i used to use alot of reaudio until they got bought out by usamps and prices sky rocketed! so i stoped buying there equipment.

as to your picture.... i could take a picture at bestbuy doesnt mean its pumping my my car!

 

I had a "professional" from a brick and mortar custom shop install the Memphis 10" subwoofer/amp in my 2007 Honda Accord and that is when I decided that I would be the only one to touch my car systems from that point forward. The "professional" was probing fuses with the car running and off and he pulled the wrong fuse while the car was running resulting in the tripping of 13 computer codes that required a trip to the dealership to reset. In addition to that, it took him ONE HOUR to run the power wire from the battery to the back of the car AND he wired the LOC out of phase off of the rear speakers and there was no bass coming from the sub. I wish I hadn't been there to witness his screw ups.

Prior to that, January 2000 was the last time I let another custom shop install my F150 system. The crimp on the remote turn on came loose and it blew that output on my $600 pre-amp only Alpine. I was not a happy camper! Oh yeah, and they installed a Viper alarm zip tied to the steering column. I could disable the alarm in roughly 2 seconds...

Sadly, my two bad experiences were from top rated shops.... I won't even get into the horror stories from the local Best Buy and Circuit City. One last rub, if Best Buy is so good with its "professional" installs, how come Rockford Fosgate never let them carry the Power line of amplifiers and speakers?

 

#1 bestbuy doesnt carry polk. #2 that driveway isnt inside bestbuy.

 

ok thanks for all the advise guys, but i am still unsure what to get, this sounds like alot of arguing to me... and being unexperianced i dont know who to trust and take advise from...

 

Truthfully, you could end up going through a lot of system changes OR you may get the sound you want the first time. Sadly, what you hear slamming in a display board will not sound so great in your vehicle. OTOH, some things that sound like crap on the display board actually sound great in your own vehicle. We can sit here and argue all we want but the fact of the matter is that only your ear will determine what is best to you!

In all this bickering, you were given some good advice. The Alpine Type R subs are great subwoofers for the money. JL Audio isn't that bad, but IMHO they are WAY overpriced for what you get in the lower model lines. I'll even agree with eloplayspolo in that Polk has some awesome sounding stuff too! Other subs that I have heard that sound good for the price are the Pioneers and Phoenix golds. When it comes to components, Phoenix Gold makes some of the best sounding components for under $100: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+RSd+65cs.html

As for me, I have one last sub that I am going to try in my Civic before I call it done, and that is a Digital Designs 1010 in a ported box off of my Rockford Fosgate P5002. I also purchased a set of these components that Woofers etc. is clearing out: http://cgi.ebay.com/CDT-Audio-CL-S60...d=p3286.c0.m14 and will power them off of my Linear Power 1502IQ.

 

those comps are rated at 60w rms..... thats TERRRRRIBLE

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...O+MMC6500.html

 

Yeah, but if he gets the JL Audio 10w1 or 12w1 subwoofer, the PG comps won't overpower the sucky sub (hahahahaha).

ETA: I bet they will take more power if high passed at 80 to 100 hz! Except for the CDTs I mentioned earlier, can you think of another 6.5" component set under $100 delivered to your door that will sound better?

 

I found out that this is NOT the case firsthand.

The amp - A Rockford Fosgate P5002 with a low passed @ 80 hz

The subs: Two 10" JL Audio 10w3v2s sealed versus a single ported Digital Designs 1010

The result: The DD1010 kicks *** and takes names in the deep bass frequencies, shaking the hell out of the Civic and making stuff inside the car pulsate to the music. The 10w3v2s SUCK because you hear nothing out of the deep bass area. I have been on a metal/drum and bass kick lately and the 10" JL Audio subs sound like utter crap! I hate to do this to someone, but the JL Audios are going on craigslist if none of my friends want them!

 

well your partaly true there.. what i ment was the same model subs...
certain subs can be very loud compared to some crap..

only jl sub id buy is there highest model. ive had there w0s and it sucked really bad!
id only buy the w7 13. i do like the way they mount with hidding the screws under the surround but id rather save my money and buy cheaper but still dam good equipment.

 

True, I am starting to think that I wouldn't like those JL Audio subs, even if they were ported. As they told me on caraudio.com, I am comparing a high end SPL subwoofer to an entry level SQ subwoofer and it is totally unfair to compare those two subwoofers.

OTOH the 13w6v2 that is in my Mustang slams for a sealed box, but there is no way I am paying close to full price for another JL Audio Subwoofer!