I purchased this aswell as Meguiars polish and wax. I never used clay befor on my car but I read about it on here so I thought I would try it. The kit comes with 2 clay bars, spray lubricant( for the clay), cleaner wax, and microfiber cloth( I think thats the term for it). I was careful applying it because I heard you can scratch your car if you don't kneed the clay often. So I did a portion of the hood spraying first then gently rubbing the clay over it. I dunno if I did it right or not but I waited till it dried then wiped off the hazed clay. Didn't see that much debri on the clay, but I also washed and rinsedthe carwell befor using it. I'll do another treatment soon just wanted to test it out. I didn't use the cleaner wax because I used the polish, and the carnuba wax I also picked up.

To me it yielded mix results...... onmy right and left fenders above the wheel wellthe paint is worn a little (I dunno if it's from sun, or bad buffing job, I dunnoit was like it when I bought it). But after I applied the polish and wax..... it was like a miracle! you can hardly notice it. Filled it right in and you don't see white scuffs that were there(should of taken pics).
However on the hood it seems kind of foggy in the middle after I aplied the polish and wax. I dunno if I let it sit too long or what (got a phone call after I put the wax on) because it says to wipe away immediately after applying. Which is different to me, the stuff I've used in the past like liquid glass and nufinish atleast took 5 min to set in. I didn't use an aplicator pad like they recommend though, just some clean terry cloths and the microfiber cloth that came in the clay kit.

 

Screwed that up..deleted

 

Glad it helped out some, I clay at least once a year or as necessary.... it does wonders if done correctly. One thing I noticed in your comments above... You don't let the clay dry to a haze on the surface, in fact the clay does not come off on the surface at all, you're trying to bring the surface (contaminants) into the clay. Clayingrequires constant lubrication, never anything drying. Generously spray the surface,claythe surface, frequently fold the clay to new unused portions. Then once the surface contaminants have been removed, dry the surface with a clean microfiber.

What particular polish did you use? Most polishes simply fill in swirls and do not remove them. So it will look good until the polish wears off. I useMeguiars' professional line of products. Their "dual action cleaner polish" (which actually words as a compound) does wonders, especiallyfollowed up by their "#9 swirl remover". This combination will remove light scratches and swirls completely.

And you say your hood is still foggy. If it's not begun to oxidize, that usually comes from a surface not being completely clean and waxing or polishing on top of some sort ofcontaminants. I would suggest a goodpaint shampoo (Meg's Gold Class Shampoo will do fine) to remove all the waxes and polishes completely from the surface. Use a good sea sponge, microfiber, or chenille mitt. Clay the surface again, and then apply the wax first, then top it offwith the polish.If oxidation has started taking place, you mayneed a more aggressive compound like Meg's dual action cleaner polish I mentioned above. That and a lot of elbow grease, a rotary polisher, or anorbital polisher capable of around 6000 orbits per minute. Hope everything works out for ya![8D]

 

Ya, the cleaner wax you mentioned came with the claykit. I pretty much have all the meguiars products you mentioned. The polish and wax was part of the 3 step process bottles. I Just didn't get the1st step bottlefor washing because I use this armorall brand car wash soap. I bet a buffer would help the shine a lot better I'll do that another time. I really just wanted to test out some Meguiars products on certain portions of my car.

couple questions....
Since I already clayed, polished, and waxed my hood. Could I polish, wax and clay over it again? Since theres some layers ofproduct on the paint it seems like re-claying and polishing wouldn't do much, correct me if I'm wrong.

I also purchased some Meguiars scratch remover(cost almost $8 bucks)for a few spots my cat made with his claws....But it didn't do anything really, I did multiple applications too, to see if it made a difference but nothing.

Anymore suggestions? I am still newbish with polishing/waxing my car so i'm sure it's not all the products fault......

 

Oh ok I see so I should remove all the products' layers on there first befor re-finishing....gotcha missed that the first time reading it. Really apply the wax first then polish? Is says on the bottle to do polish first then wax, to oxidize then wax to shield your paint and give it a shine.

 

Sorry, Imust have beenin lala land when I typed that. [&:]Always polish first and apply wax last. Wax goes on last unless you topit with some sort of glaze.

....Polishing conditions the paint, enhances gloss, surface cleanliness (polishes with abrasives) and prepares the paint for protection.

....Wax is a protective barrier from the elements. A true wax has no abrasives and simply protects and is most effective when applied to a properly cleaned and prepared surface. If you have crap on your paint and dust etc, the wax's protective properties will be signifigantly diminished. The better condition the surface is in, the longer and betterthe wax will protect it. Prep work is the most important part of detailing... Prep is key...

Edit...
And to answer your other question, about removing the products. Yes... do that. More than likely you have products covering the haziness and you can't actually get to it for complete removal. Even some oxidation can be removed, it just takes a lot of pads, towels, mircrofibers, etc.

Scratch X is a polish withmedium cutabrasives. You don't layer it, you concentrate on rubbing with fairly heavy pressure in a fastmotion (back and forth not circular) trying to produce heat and friction the same as a rotary does. Then completely remove it.Yes, it's a workout butit can be used by machine as well but tends to clump up and takes a little cleanup afterwards.

 

Wow man you really got the low down on this stuff thanks a bunch!

 

Umm just getting one thing straight guys... polish removes the paint off your car
wax adds a layer on for protection. So the polish that took away the light swirls did so not by filling the swirls in, but by literally lowering the entire paint to the bottom of the swirl's level. So once you polish and it looks good, it'll stay that way until you drag some more contaminants across your paint while drying it or something, that's why you always wax after polishing is to get that protective layer over the paint so that things eat away at the wax not the paint.

and as far as removing the oxidation that takes two things: a heavy cut polish and a rotary buffer because you can't create the kind of heat needed by hand to remove it. The only problem there is that if it's old paint or the oxidation is thick, you might not have any base coat underneath the oxidation to uhhh "show" by removing the oxidized part.

 

What?! you must mean dirt and debri right....