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Turbo Kit Installation (2)

Old 10-17-2005, 09:40 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,358
Default Turbo Kit Installation (2)

I’ve read a lot of threads but I’ve never really posted up until now. There have been so many questions about installation of turbo kits and answers to specific questions but no real “How-to.”

Here is a guide that I pieced together from all of my photos that I took while installing my latest turbo system. I don’t have all the answers, but, I have heard a lot of the questions. Hope this helps.

Most of us are familiar with these install basics so this is mainly for the people that are rather new to turbo.

D16Z6 Turbo System Installation on a “Semi-Stock” motor

1995 GBP Civic EX

Parts List:
Turbonetics T04B/T3 Super V-72 .63AR Turbo
Drag 4 into 1 Cast Iron Turbo Exhaust Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate with .4bar (5.802psi) spring
Cast Iron wastegate elbow connector
High volume/high pressure inline fuel pump – Airtex
Blox Racing 12:1 Boost Dependant FMU
27” x 7” x 2.5” Drag High Flow Front Mount Intercooler with Polished Cast Aluminum End Tanks
K&N Intake Filter Assembly
Custom Mandrel-Bent Chrome-Plated Intercooler Piping
Blitz Dual Drive Super Sound Blow-Off Valve
5-Bolt 2.5” Exhaust Down Pipe with Custom Flex-flange
Blox Racing MAP Sensor Bypass Valve (Missing Link)
Goodridge Stainless Steel Braided Oil Feed Line with Fittings
Blue Silicone Couplers and Marine Grade Hose Clamps
Oil Line Return Assembly (Hose and 9/16” ID elbow bend pipe) with fittings and hose clamps
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil filter
Fuel Filter
Mobil 1 15W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil
All wiring and connectors

Note: Keep in mind that this suits MY needs and not necessarily yours. Before you do anything… DO YOUR HOMEWORK! Learn as much as you can (I’m still learning and probably always will). There are lots of knowledgeable members that can guide you in the right direction for your needs. Ask questions and a lot of them. If you don’t feel comfortable with any part of the install, have someone else (experienced) do it for you, or stop and get the correct info.

You’ll want to get a Civic Guide to properly torque bolts, identify vacuum lines, wiring diagrams, removal steps, etc.

I. Inline Fuel Pump and FMU Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Remove the Strut Tower Brace (if you have one)

3. Jack up the car and remove the front passenger wheel
4. Loosen the splash guard halfway by removing the retaining screws and looseys to gain access to the resonator and intake tube horn (if you still have a factory airbox) and remove it
5. Remove the air cleaner case and intake up to the throttle body; cover the throttle body with saran wrap or plastic bag for good measure. (don’t forget it later or you’ll be sorry).

Note about the installation of the inline fuel pump:
I used an Inline and not In-tank fuel pump for my install. The inline fuel pump provides the high pressure and high volume fuel delivery that is well suited for an FMU setup as will be used. A high volume in-tank fuel pump such as the popular Walbro 255 In-tank fuel pump works better with larger injectors and a standalone system. The 12:1 FMU will add 12psi fuel pressure for every 1psi of boost. If you were to use a static fuel pressure set at 40psi, then at 7psi the FMU will raise your fuel pressure to 124psi! The Walbro fuel pump is to provide high volume but can not provide pressures this high. This is not to say that an inline is better than in-tank, only for the setup that I will have for now, the inline is more realistic.

6. Cut the rubber fuel line about 2” away from the fuel filter. Since you are relieving fuel pressure and installing an inline fuel pump, change the fuel filter. Some gas will spill out so have a rag handy to prevent it from spilling all over, then throw the rag away (you don’t need the fumes hanging around).

7. Connect the inline fuel pump inlet to the rubber hose coming off of the fuel filter. Connect the outlet to the rubber hose that is feeding your fuel rail. Do not secure the fuel pump at this time until you have a better understanding of the final placement.

8. Electrical connections
a.) Run at least 14 gauge (I used 12) from the negative terminal on the fuel pump to a ground on the chassis. Make sure that the ground is to exposed metal. Sand away a spot to expose bare metal if necessary; use an eye connector and screw it down.
b.) Run at least 14 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the fuel pump through the firewall hole located behind the lower right corner of the battery. Instead of leaving the hole open or wedging the wire around the edge, take an Xacto blade and cut an “X” through the middle of the grommet and pass all wires through the rubber grommet.

c.) Run the wire under the dash towards the driver’s side. Find the PGM-FI main relay located under the driver’s side dash by the kick panel near the hood release. You may need to remove the three screws holding the plastic cover beneath the steering column and the reinforcement plate if you can’t see under the dash.
d.) Disconnect the brown connector from the Grey Relay Box and twist to expose pin #4.

e.) Pin #4 should be a Yellow wire with a Green stripe. Tap this wire with a T-Tap or splice and solder the 14 gauge wire here; this will provide power to your new fuel pump.
f.) An alternative that I used is to use a relay inline to prevent leaching of current on the existing wire. This is done by purchasing a relay and connecting the wires as described using female quick disconnects.
Pin 86 – Pin #4 wire on PGM-FI Main Relay
Pin 85 – Chassis ground inside your car
Pin 87 – Positive terminal on inline fuel pump
Pin 30 – Positive on your car’s battery

The positive from your car’s battery can be tapped into using a fork connector and screwing it down under the positive wire under the fuse box top in your engine bay to the left of the battery.

The Relay can be purchased from an automotive shop or even Radio Shack. Look for a 12VDC/30A SPST Automotive Relay. This is the better way to go.

9.) Test your fuel pump
a.) Reconnect the negative terminal on your battery
b.) Turn the key to position #2 – will allow the use of power but does not crank the engine over.
c.) Check for any fuel leaks
d.) Repeat the process three times checking for leaks every time.
Note: when the key is in position #2, the inline fuel pump should turn on for a second (you’ll hear the buzz) and turn off again. If the fuel pump continues to run, you tapped the wrong wire. If so, try tapping wire #7 on the main relay.

10.) FMU Installation
a.) Disconnect the negative terminal on battery.
b.) Secure the FMU to the rear firewall or strut tower.
c.) Remove the fuel return line from the stock fuel pressure regulator which is located on the fuel rail.

d.) Connect the fuel return hose to the bottom of the FMU.

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