You can see the main parts that are in my engine build at the bottom of my signature. The problem is I just got the car tuned and for some reason I have this stalling issue. The weather is pretty cold lately, so the car starts up fine and idles at about 1000rpm. It will drive fine as I'm going around my block but as I get to the stop sign at the end of my block when I put it in neutral on push the clutch in the rpms will drop and go up and then drop to 0 (Or just drop to 0 without going up and down). When the idle starts to go up and down as I get to this first stop, my lights and stuff will dim and the heater will stop blowing as hard as the rpms drop and then it stalls. However after I get past this one stop sign on my block and the engine is more warmed up, the stalling issue goes away. The stalling issue doesnt happen if the engine is started warm. I cleaned my IACV about a week ago, it idles smoother now but it did not fix this problem. I believe this is a technical problem and not the tuning because my tuner knows what he is doing and he mentioned that tuning the idle wasn't very responsive.
So hopefully this is understandable, if you know anything I can try please let me know!
I was thinking about cleaning the Fast Idle Valve but was told by another shop this would likely do nothing?
Thanks in advance

 

Also could this be because of my oxygen sensor or TPS? I read that oxygen sensors dont effect anything until the engine is warm though so probably not the problem but I'm willing to try whatever.

 

Is the CEL ON?

If not, then:

1) Definitely also try cleaning the Fast Idle Valve.

2) Check the coolant level in the both the radiator and reservoir. Top off with coolant if low. Then bleed the cooling system of possible trapped air.

3) Check whether the alternator belt is loose or glazed. Replace or tighten as necessary.

 

The CEL is not on.
I will try cleaning the fast idle valve tomorrow if there is time. Just need to read how to remove it first? It's on the bottom of the Throttle Body correct?
Coolant level is fine. Would you still advise to bleed it?
I will check the alternator belt tomorrow. (On a side note I killed my last battery a few times by forgetting my HIDs on but showed no damage to the alternator, I recently installed a new Honda battery)
Is the TPS or 02 Sensor still a possibility even with no CEL?

 

The diagram should help with the FITV.

I think bleeding the cooling system is still worthwhile.

I don't think either the TPS or O2 sensor is a good candidate.

 

Thanks RonJ, Ill check it tomorrow and get back to you. I'm also going to look for vacuum leaks as I was told to check for that on another forum. I've never bled the coolant before but I'm not too worried about it, it's nothing that some searching cant tell me how to do.

 

No problem. Check for vacuum/intake air leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner around hose connections and gaskets. A leak is indicated by a change in idle speed. This is worth a try, though a leak typically causes a hunting idle (up and down repeatedly) or a high idle.

Here's how to bleed the cooling system:

 

Thats simple enough, do I need to flush the old coolant out with water ?
I was also told to check the coolant temp. sensor. I will try replacing it if nothing else works.

 

Unless it's time to replace the coolant anyway, just perform the bleeding procedure in the diagram. I almost forgot to mention an important step. The heater lever/dial must be turned to full heat during the bleeding procedure so that no air remains trapped in the heater core.

 

Have you discussed the situation with your tuner?