I'd wager it isn't.

B16__ (SiR) - ~$3,000-$3,500 once it's in the car, 160-170bhp, 111-113ft*lbs
B18c1 (GSR) - $4,000 once it's in the car (if you don't half-a** it), 180bhp, 126ft*lbs
B18c (ITR) - ~$6,000 once it's in the car (again, not taking shortcuts), 200bhp, 134ft*lbs
H22a (base model jdm prelude) - ~$4,000 once it's in the car (the right way), 200bhp, 161ft*lbs

Remember, peak power means nothing. How often are you at peak power? Peak power is almost always close to redline. Instead, look at torque. Torque is what gets you moving from a stop. Torque is what dusts the tires. Torque is what gets you up a hill. Horsepower is quite literally just a number; you can't measure it and it's directly derived from torque.

In other words, the h22a is truly the best bang-for-the-buck engine if you're going twin-cams. Now, if you want to boost the engine, that's another story, but saying "what's the best bang-for-the-buck swap plus a turbo?" is completely different than "what's the best bang-for-the-buck swap?"

Granted, my price estimates are the average price of a longblock/trans/pcm from a swap dealer plus replacing high-wear items (timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, ignition system, clutch, etc), mount kits and axles (*cough* h22 *cough*), etc. If you can find a good deal on a used engine locally, the price is going to change. But you can't exactly get comparable numbers by figuring "oh, if I get a deal on X, the price will be Y". The key word is comparable.


***I'm not trying to start sh*t, I'm just making my point and backing it up***

I read somewhere that for an H22 swap to work, both air conditioning and power steering systems would have to be removed, because of its size. Is this true?

Anyways, is it possible to have a 13.5 second civic without an engine swap?

yes it is. build it, boost it, tune it.

13-13.5 with your y7, no..

If the engine swaps are out of your budget, therefore, a mini-me swap would be best, to convert your y7, into a D16y8 Vtec.

D16Y8

VTEC

Also available in New Zealand under the code D16Y6

* Found in
o 1999-2000 Honda Civic SE 1.6 Vtec (UK)
o 1996-1999 Honda Civic EX Sedan
o 1996-1999 Honda Civic EX Coupe
o 1996-2000 Honda Civic EX (US)
o 1996-2000 Honda Civic SI (Canada Only)
o 1997-2000 Acura 1.6EL (Canada Only)
o 1996-1997 Honda del Sol Si
o 1997-2000 Rover 416 Auto
+ Displacemnt : 1590cc
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in)
+ Rod Length : 137 MM
+ Rod/Stroke : 1.52
+ Compression : 9.6:1
+ Valvetrain : SOHC VTEC 4 valves per cylinder
+ Power : 127 hp (94.7 kW, 129 ps) @ rpm
+ Torque : 111 ft·lbf (45.79 kg/m, 145.1 Nm) @ rp
+ Head Code : P2J
+ VTEC Switchover : 5200 rpm
+ Piston Code : P2P
+ Redline 6900 rpm
+ ECU Code : P2P

the mini me swap is cheap, therefore you will be saving a lot of money, to build a D series,
You could:

-Turbo
-I/H/E

I hope I helped.

I believe there's a way to keep both power steering and A/C, but I'm not exactly sure. I know Hasport used to have a parts guide to keep that kind of stuff on their site, but it would seem it's been taken down (I can't find it anyway). A lot of it comes down to the mount kit, though. Different companies' mount kits put the engine in slightly different positions.

But yes, you can take a d-series into the 13's with a lot of boost and good tires or slicks. You'll be spending a good bit to make the setup reliable enough to DD on though.