vtec is mainly just for economy.... but when building a high hp car vtec is just one more pain in the a$$ to deal with.... non vtec would be the way to go if you dont really want to tune around vtec...my friend is getting a b18b for like 1800 bucks installed into his hatch... still wont be faster than my hatch when i get a tune but it will be better than his auto d15b7 lol

 

^^not really. in a DOHC engine its more performance oriented than in SOHCs. it will net you more power up top. you're right its a bitch to tune with but in the end it does give you power.

the one thing i like about the C1 over the B is that you can interchangeably use type R parts with it...and its a lot harder to do so in an LS. i mean you cant use many other OEM cams with an LS unless you change the head to a GSR or something that has vtec anyway.

 

How many HP can the LS crank take? Also how does the 6500RPM redline of the LS affect its performance?

 

well the longer stroke makes for the lower rpm. the thing i dont like about low redlines is that you have to shift more and you're in the lower rpms more and can loose turbo spool.

most honda cranks can take any major performance you throw at 'em. i know the CFT civic is running a stock crank and its just shot peened.

 

But what people do not understand is that you take the specs from say a B16A cams high lopes when in vtec and do a grind or buy a non vtec cam with those same specs and put it in say a B18B with the same c/r as a C1, add arp rod bolt's and tune them the same as far as top end goes and right around the same results will be had. I want to make this clear, vtec is not now and never will be for performance in any engine. It is so that they can bridge the gap between daily driver freindly smaller cams(the low rpm lobes) and higher rpm cams(the vtec lobes on a vtec equiped engine)

Some of the best bump sticks you can buy for DOHC VTEC engine eliminate vtec all together and are really pricey. Does TODA ring a bell? if not take a look or look here

 

If i was to get a B18B and get forged pistons and rods, would that raise the redline? It sounds like a GSR would have an advantage with a turbo since it has a higher redline.

 

What people do not understand is the redline and how much you can rev is not important. Look at it this way. You can have a 5000rpm to 9000rpm powerband or you can have a 3000rpm to 7000rpm powerband. Which one are you going to be able to use more on the street. It's like my Formula will only rev out to around 6200 to 6400rpm but I have gobs of power at 1000rpm. But with arp headstuds, forged rods you will be able to rev to around 8000rpm but it will be pointless unless you buy cams than make power up there.

 

[8D] I'd appreciate any help I could get, and i'd be more than happy to compensate you with beer + cash.

I've decided to go with the b18b, thanks for the advice... going with the b18b saves at least an extra 1,500 which I will put towards building the engine and boosting the car, the sooner the better.

I don't know of any good local shops around here, but i'd be willing to make a trip for a good tune.

 

When ever you are ready to tune let me know as I know a guy down around your way that may do it.

 

will do, I appreciate your help man.