A bleed bolt is not necessary for your engine, but I don't think it will hurt either. For the bleed procedure above, just skip the bleed bolt step.

 

well it's doing something strange, the engine was completly cold,had sat for two days, yet within 10 seconds of starting it the temp gauge rose a quarter of the way, starting to suspect the gauge, with the new sender it does stay stable though. just reads high. Got the better sender from Nappa, so i'm pretty confident it's the right one. going to try one more thing, i just swapped the thermostat before this, it might be the wrong one, the gauge reading like it does tells me it might be electrical though and a ghost of the gauge itself. any ideas? do you have a classified section, might be looking for a temp fuel gauge from a cluster, I hate to buy an entire cluster for one gauge set.

 

here we go again, the car was fine for a few days, now it's started overheating again, the fan wasn't switching on, the switch is on order, I'm hoping i got a bad thermostat , i've gotten new ones that were mispackaged in the past, replaced it a couple of weeks ago and it had quit doing this, now it's doing it again. I really hope it's not the water pump or a head gasket, i would like one weekend without working on one of these cars. any way to check to see if it may be the gauge itself? it's strange that before the car has even had a chance to warm up,the temp gauge rises a 1/4 of the way up the gauge, talking about on a cold engine, I may be chasing a ghost, trying to figure out how to tell

 

Ok here we go again, I'm sure this is something electrical causing a phantom overheating problem, car overheats in five minutes? So i got smart, turned on the heater, heater core is fine, no clogs , works great when warmed up, strange, if the engine is at the temp it is indicating on the gauge, I would have heat blasting out of the heater. yet the air is cool, already replaced the fan switch, fans should be on at that temp too, they aren't on yet, i already replaced the temp sending unit with one from nappa too. new thermostat, got all the air out. where are the grounds for the gauge cluster behind the dash? best buy had put an alarm in before we bought it and did a real hack job, it's possible one of their **** connections moved. I'm going to try to replace the engine ground cable tomorrow, battery ground cable is fine, the old ground strap from the block to the frame doesn't look so hot, 5 dollar short battery cable with rings on each end ought to fix that. We also get an intermittent code for a bad rear 02 sensor, but the code comes and goes, sound like a ground issue? the engine behavior just doesn't seem to match what the gauge is reading.

 

Ok i know it'selectrical in nature now, car was running at a normal temp, heard the fan click on, at the second the fan kicked on the temp gauge shot up to hot. so for some reason electrical loads cause the gauge to not read correctly.

 

Ok I went and got a 3 dollar and change 4 gauge battery cable with a ring on each end, replaced the ground strap between the ps bracket and the radiator support, and the gauge won't go more then 1/4 way up now. Figures, chasing a dam ghost. Can someone tel me is there supposed to be a ground cable between the body and that threaded piece off of the valve cover? It looks like a cable might have always been missing and the small strap took up the slack.

 

you just need 1 ground going from the battery to motor/trans.
and one going from motor/trans to body.
you can also add one going from battery to body.

 

ok so one is missing then, it was fine for a while after i replaced the ground, then all of the sudden the temp shot up, seems to be somehow affected by the electrical system.

 

Ok i diagnosed my overheating problem, i had replaced the connector on the temp sender because it was shot out, the bad connector actually increased resistance, causing the new sender to read somewhere near normal, once i replaced the connector the temp wants to stay near hot, I finally found the specs for the sender, when the engine is cold, or below 130 degrees, it's supposed to read 140 ohms aprox. this new sender I've got reads 67, when the engine is at normal temp it's supposed to read between 30-46 ohms, you can see the problem, when the engine is cold the needle is already off the peg and a little bit up the gauge. of course this throws the entire gauge off. When I went back to nappa, I tested a supposed "good" one off of the shelf, it reads 500 ohms cold!! They claim there is nothing wrong with the one on the shelf and won't order another one, they can't comprehend what it means for the resistance of the sender to be off. Sad to say this has been a good store, but they seem to know little or nothing about basic things like this. when you own a store and don't even understand the most basic of electrical theory, thats a bad sign, and this store has been here for 30 years!! I'm, looking for a good used sender if someone has one, it's the 1.6 non V tec engine, 98 civic. get ahold of me at losts86hatch@juno.com if you have one and we will work out a deal.

 

I just joined this thing and not quite sure how it works. I have an overheating issue with cooling system. Replaced radiator, thermostat and radiator cap and still doing the same thing, there are no leaks in the hoses thinking it might be water pump but do not know for sure. please help!