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H22A swap (Final decision/thread) - few questions, please help!

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H22A swap (Final decision/thread) - few questions, please help!

  #1  
Old 09-14-2009, 04:26 AM
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Default H22A swap (Final decision/thread) - few questions, please help!

Alright, so i've decided to do the h22a swap, cheapest swap i could find, and best for an NA setup.

I just have a few questions about what i'd need etc. I have a '93 del sol, with a d15b7 in it currently, it is a 5-speed.
I'd be going w/ this swap:

""Price: $ 1799.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In stock and ready to go.

- Motor
- Hydraulic Tranny
- ECU (P13)
- Alternator
- Starter
- Clutch
- Flywheel
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed
- LSD Tranny (Optional +$300)

Motors average 35,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty. All Sensors are guaranteed not broken and in working condition!

* If you need a motor mount kit for your 1992-2000 civic, we can supply you with the hasport kit for $450. Hasport Axles for $300 Prices valid with purchase of a motor only. ""

Assuming i need the hasport mounts and axles for 450/300, then the swap is 2,450$ + shipping.


1.) Is there a cheaper place for the mounts/axles?

2.) What else do i need for a complete swap?

3.) What size pipes would be the best for this swap?(for the exhaust - i'm going w/ AEM v2 Cold air intake, and dc sports headers, -greddy exhaust, but not sure of diameter - unless someone can recommend anything better then mentioned here.)

4.) When looking for parts(like header/intake/exhaust) Am i going to be looking for the stuff for a prelude? or what car?

5.) Other comments


I was attempting to add-on to previous posts, but it doesn't look like anyone checks out replies to other posts, so hopefully this will be a running post until everything i need is decided. I hear the swap could be done in 12-15 hours, so hopefully i can knock this out w/ 3 guys during a sat/sun type deal. The thing is, obviously if i don't have a part i will need for the swap, it would delay the process. If i get this done over a weekend, i won't need to rent a car for the week etc.

Thanks in advance for any help, i really appreciate it.
 
  #2  
Old 09-14-2009, 05:19 AM
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take into account the maintence parts when totalling up costs
including (but not limited to)
timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and wires, all fluids, and random gaskets that might need replacing
good choice with intake and exhaust and the size exhaust depends how much power youre going to be getting from the engine (are you building it?)
but for the header get a Megan header its a lot cheaper and work just as well and is decent quality
 
  #3  
Old 09-14-2009, 07:24 AM
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im buying it as a whole swap with what i mentioned above. it gaurentees start up so all belts should be fine right?
 
  #4  
Old 09-14-2009, 08:00 AM
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I'm at lunch right now, so I can't post much, but after work I'll give you some info.

And you should still change the belts.
 
  #5  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:34 PM
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Okie dokie.

The package you're looking at comes with the basics of what you'll need. You will need special mounts and axles to fit the H in an EG chassis. $450/300 sounds about right for them. In addition, you'll want to change out the maintenance items like the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, and ignition system (at least the plugs and wires). While the engine and transmission are both out of the car, I'd recommend you put in a new clutch and have the flywheel re-surfaced or get a new one while you're at it. Also, if you're looking at a JDM H22A, you should be aware the JDM engine's fuel rail inlet is on the opposite side the USDM H's is. You can either run a fuel line across the engine bay, or you can get a USDM fuel rail.

Like I said before, I wouldn't risk the belts. The timing belt should 100% absolutely be changed (unless you want to take a chance, but the h22 is an interference engine like any other honda engine, so if the timing belt breaks there's almost a guarantee you'll end up with bent valves), and it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the accessory belts, either. If you get the engine and the belts are cracked or chipped, replace them.

For the exhaust, most cat-backs are 2.5", so you don't have many options there. Either way, 2.5" is a good exhaust size for the H22. Engine parts in general, you're looking at prelude parts (unless you want to get technical, as some accord parts could theoretically work, too). The exhaust will still need to be for a Del Sol, though. The intake, a del sol intake should work, and a prelude intake might work (no promises on that).



If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

(also, you're going to need to run 3-4 wires when you do the swap)
 
  #6  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:42 PM
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get the lsd it is one of the most valuable supporting mods you will ever get for your car.
 
  #7  
Old 09-14-2009, 01:50 PM
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^ he means this:




Not this:









But he's right, get an LSD. You could do the most bada** ****'in one-tire fire the world has ever seen and people would still LOL 'cuz only one wheel is spinning... and that's just f*ckin lulzy.
 
  #8  
Old 09-14-2009, 02:08 PM
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at work on my phone but thanks for all the help
 
  #9  
Old 09-14-2009, 02:11 PM
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oh i meant to ask. whzat is difference between hydraulic vs the lsd you guys are saying to get?
 
  #10  
Old 09-14-2009, 02:36 PM
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Hydraulic would be referring to your transmission. The LSD is a Limited-Slip Differential. On a normal open differential, if one wheel loses traction, all power is transferred to that wheel. In other words, the wheel you don't need power at gets all the power while the wheel you want to have power doesn't get any. An LSD cures this by allowing both wheels to receive close to equal power under low-traction conditions.

Basically, you do a burnout with an open differential and only one wheel burns out while the other one sits there like a drooling retard.

You do a burnout with a LSD and both wheels go up in smoke.

That's not to say that's the only benefit of it (because, honestly... that would be a really retarded product). In less-than-ideal conditions (snow, heavy rain, dirt/mud, etc), if one wheel starts spinning, the other wheel still has some power, so you can still drive. That would be especially important if you live in an area that gets snow.
 

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