You run your brake booster line into the side of the vac mani, then run a line from the bottom of the vac mani to where the brake booster used to attach (IM). Then run the rest of your stuff (BOV, WG, Boost gauge, etc..) off the remaining nipples


...tee he, nipples

 

word, thanks for the tip

 

wow looks amazing man. Have fun

 

Oh yeah people!!! Like i said, it was running rough and i was slightly concerned. I knew it need a valve adjustment, but damn, i did not know it was that bad! I had the valves adjusted at work today and holy crap, its not even the same car. It runs flawless!!! No more noise, stuttering, hard idle. Cranks right up and holds a steady 900rpm!! Cant wait to get it tuned! Piston break in continues.

 

i was thinking of something today t34me, you are using regular oil right for the break in of the rings/pistons? if you are using sythetic stop and switch immediatly because synthetic oil is to slippery and will lubricate to well so the rings wont seal and will have problems up the ****

 

yeah i read that somewhere while i was doing the build, so i made sure not to use synthetic, but thanks for watching out. Its going well, it might sound stupid, but everyday i drive the car it feels stronger and stronger, i think the rings are seating nicely. Im going to do an oil change in about 50miles here, then start doing some harder pulls on them. Will keep the update going.

 

That is exactly what my mech was telling me that we were going to do once the block is ready to go. Use dyno oil because of the friction it has. He was even telling me that on the first oil change on dyno, once its about time to change it to start pretty much beating the chit out of the motor because of the old oil will cause more heat and friction.

 

word[sm=bananallama.gif]

 

Ive got the Vac manifold and its got all the copper fittings, ready to go.

 

I'm interested to hear what your compression is after you have those rings broken in.