By having the spark plug in the ignition wire w/ the car running, but the wire/plug out of the cylinder?

 

Sorry. Disregard my last comment. I wasn't thinking clearly. The picture shows a way to test the wires with a multimeter, if you have one.

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/1A6D70ECC82F44FCA9B7FC68C1D6DD0B.jpg[/IMG]

 

I don't have a multimeter (but I could get one). Will my method work instead?

 

I think your method may work. I was trying to provide you with an alternative if your test led to an ambiguous outcome.

 

I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens.

 

I wonder whether disconnecting a good plugwire will trigger the CEL to turn ON. If so, would that say that your misfire problem isn't due to a faulty plugwire?

 

Okay, I checked my ignition wires w/ multimeter...no problems. I also replace my new wires w/ the old ones I was using previously...same symptoms. So, I'm ruling out ignition wires as a possible cause.

Since it's not the wires, it's gotta be the new O2 sensor I put it. So, I unplugged the sensor (which triggered a CEL) and the misfiring got better. I could still here it popping a little, but the engine wasn't shuddering like it was w/ the sensor still plugged in.

As I mentioned before, my old CVT setup used a standard 4-pin narrowband O2 sensor. Since I converted it to a 5-speed, I had to use a new wideband O2 sensor (8-pin/7-wire; D16Y5 5-speed is the only model that uses an OEM wideband O2 sensor).

Now, I assumed I wired the new sensor into the wire harness/ECU correctly since I didn't throw a CEL. Is it possible a bad wire splice on my part would cause the sensor to read incorrectly, but not throw a CEL?

 

I'll look at the ECM/O2 circuit and see if I can come up with an answer (unfortunately not guaranteed). Is it the primary O2 sensor?

In the meanwhile, even though it seems like the problem is coming from the O2 sensor, maybe you should also check whether some of plugs may be fouled.

 

Yes, it's the primary O2 sensor. And I just replaced the plugs last week (made sure they were properly gapped, too). Here are the page numbers from the manual that I used as a guide for the re-wiring:

Electrical Section - 202-5 - Plug C123
" " - 202-26 - Connector A
" " - 202-27 - Connector C & D

 

Just a thought. Do CVT and 5-speed Civics have the same ECU? If not, could this be the problem?