rods/pistons question
Would I need to send the block off for new pistons and rods? Or just throw them on in without a hitch.
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RE: rods/pistons question
Send it out, get it done 110% right the first time, the sleeves wont be a perfect fit for the new pistons, id get it balanced......make sure they use ARP headstuds too.....this way head lift is NEVER an issue.
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RE: rods/pistons question
ORIGINAL: Remmy Would I need to send the block off for new pistons and rods? Or just throw them on in without a hitch. |
RE: rods/pistons question
no use to replace rods and pistons unless they are bad (are as Hari mentioned there are deep scratches in the cylinder walls).
replace rings and rod bearings |
RE: rods/pistons question
hes upgrading to forged.
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RE: rods/pistons question
what sleeves? im not going get it sleeved
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RE: rods/pistons question
if you arent sleeving, boring, using a bigger piston...whatever...just do it yourself. take off the head and the oil pan, disconnect the connecting rods from the crank, push them up to your buddy up top to pull them out, and then just do essentially that in reverse order with the new stuff.
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RE: rods/pistons question
The cyl walls need to be freshened up to ensure a good seal for the rings. IMO your best bet is to find a B18B short block and rebuild it with forged rods/pistons and use a golden eagle ls/vtec conversion on it. When you are done just replace your bottom end with the new one because in the end you will be removing the block either way. This way you will have far less down time.
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RE: rods/pistons question
Im only looking to overbuild. On a budget too. I will continue running 10 psi daily and rarely doing 20. Ive decided I dont want to get too crazy with swapping things.
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RE: rods/pistons question
I understand that but for around the same price, way less down time you can have it even more over built plus you will have a B16 block to learn on or sale.
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