Would I need to send the block off for new pistons and rods? Or just throw them on in without a hitch.

 

Send it out, get it done 110% right the first time, the sleeves wont be a perfect fit for the new pistons, id get it balanced......make sure they use ARP headstuds too.....this way head lift is NEVER an issue.

 

depends if you are going w/ larger pistons. it needs to be bored out to specs of the pistons. if you are going to replace the pistons with OEM ones for a rebuild, then the sleeves needs to be inspected for deep scratches. if there are no deep scratches then you can just hone it.

 

no use to replace rods and pistons unless they are bad (are as Hari mentioned there are deep scratches in the cylinder walls).
replace rings and rod bearings

 

hes upgrading to forged.

 

what sleeves? im not going get it sleeved

 

if you arent sleeving, boring, using a bigger piston...whatever...just do it yourself. take off the head and the oil pan, disconnect the connecting rods from the crank, push them up to your buddy up top to pull them out, and then just do essentially that in reverse order with the new stuff.

 

The cyl walls need to be freshened up to ensure a good seal for the rings. IMO your best bet is to find a B18B short block and rebuild it with forged rods/pistons and use a golden eagle ls/vtec conversion on it. When you are done just replace your bottom end with the new one because in the end you will be removing the block either way. This way you will have far less down time.

 

Im only looking to overbuild. On a budget too. I will continue running 10 psi daily and rarely doing 20. Ive decided I dont want to get too crazy with swapping things.

 

I understand that but for around the same price, way less down time you can have it even more over built plus you will have a B16 block to learn on or sale.