turbo'd d15
HCF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 298
From: East Palatka FL
RE: turbo'd d15
yes, the z6 is the american version of the d15b. it has 5hp less than the d15b. since you are going with a built turbo engine and aftermarket cam then the engines wont differ any. if you put the same cam and run the same boost on a d15b and a d16z6 you will make pretty much the same power. the heads are the same.
you can make 400hp with the stock cam and 20-25psi of boost. i really dont think you will need an aftermarket cam. h beam rods, with forged pistons and some sort of cylinder support can handle that boost level.if you make any more power than that you will need axles and things like that to handle the power
you can make 400hp with the stock cam and 20-25psi of boost. i really dont think you will need an aftermarket cam. h beam rods, with forged pistons and some sort of cylinder support can handle that boost level.if you make any more power than that you will need axles and things like that to handle the power
HCF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 298
From: East Palatka FL
RE: turbo'd d15
there are a few methods for cylinder support. you can have a machine shop install a block gaurd. i have heard a few people having problems with them but a very reputable shop in my area welds them in and then decks the block and bores the cylinders and they havent once had any overheating problems that i have heard of.
the next option is block posting. basiclly you drill and tap holes on the intake side of the block and screw in set screws that lightly push against the cylinders holding them in place.
the third option is block filling. its late and im tired , but the short and simple of it is you fill your block to just above the water pump hole with clean sand. use duct tape or packing tape to cover the hole for the water pump and keep the sand in. then fill the rest with an aluminum epoxy(i can find the name if you need it). once that cures take the tape off and dump the sand out. then use a headgasket as a template and drill holes in the epoxy for the water to flow though.
and your last option is to have the block sleeved which is very expensive.
i wouldnt go over 7psi on a stock block. if you want to go higher you can do 15psi with just pistons and rods. like i said before to keep it cheap use the vitara pistons and tunertoys rods. the whole setup is less than $400 and i have seen that combo hold 25psi with cylinder support, but without i wouldnt do more than 15psi.
if you are only going to run 12psi i would do the rods and pistons and use the d15b cam if you use the d16z6 engine or if you use the d15b engine then it will already be there. you really wont notice that much of a difference by using an aftermarket cam. on a dyno you would see a difference and on the track you might see a difference but you probobly wont really feel it.
the next option is block posting. basiclly you drill and tap holes on the intake side of the block and screw in set screws that lightly push against the cylinders holding them in place.
the third option is block filling. its late and im tired , but the short and simple of it is you fill your block to just above the water pump hole with clean sand. use duct tape or packing tape to cover the hole for the water pump and keep the sand in. then fill the rest with an aluminum epoxy(i can find the name if you need it). once that cures take the tape off and dump the sand out. then use a headgasket as a template and drill holes in the epoxy for the water to flow though.
and your last option is to have the block sleeved which is very expensive.
i wouldnt go over 7psi on a stock block. if you want to go higher you can do 15psi with just pistons and rods. like i said before to keep it cheap use the vitara pistons and tunertoys rods. the whole setup is less than $400 and i have seen that combo hold 25psi with cylinder support, but without i wouldnt do more than 15psi.
if you are only going to run 12psi i would do the rods and pistons and use the d15b cam if you use the d16z6 engine or if you use the d15b engine then it will already be there. you really wont notice that much of a difference by using an aftermarket cam. on a dyno you would see a difference and on the track you might see a difference but you probobly wont really feel it.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,519
From: South Central
RE: turbo'd d15
Stock sleeves on a good tune are good to around 500whp, the D15B is a good engine to build from, it's a little more rev freindly than the Z6. I suggested the akmee type s cam package and a slightly larger turbo. Your stock engine will be good up to around 235 or so whp and 200+wtq stock on a good tune. This much power is a good area on the street for 98% of people.
*edit*
D series rods are a weak point dont get me wrong but with the correct tuning they can still hold power.
*edit*
D series rods are a weak point dont get me wrong but with the correct tuning they can still hold power.
Engine: Bone stock D16z6[/b], arp headstuds
Mods: Equal length lovefab t25 manifold, gt28rs t25 housing .86a/r, converted to external wastegate on turbo, 38mm tial gate, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, custom pwr 18x3x6 backdoor intercooler, greddy type r bov, custom 2.5" charge pipes, RC 550cc injectors, walboro 255lph HP pump, 3bar map sensor, greddy profec b boost controller, neptune
Tuning at 17psi on mix of 93 octane and Sunoco cam2:
Car has been getting beat on for the last few weeks daily driven at this power level, with no issues at all. The open stock diff is proving to make this power level useless at being put down. This engine has well over 100,000 miles and has already hit 12.0~12.2 @ 112-113mph with only 250whp this past season, with well over 90 passes at the track and daily driven.
The plan is to see how long the engine lasts at this power level, see how fast it can get in the 1/4 with a diff and possibly larger slicks. I have no doubt that this engine will last awhile.
Mods: Equal length lovefab t25 manifold, gt28rs t25 housing .86a/r, converted to external wastegate on turbo, 38mm tial gate, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, custom pwr 18x3x6 backdoor intercooler, greddy type r bov, custom 2.5" charge pipes, RC 550cc injectors, walboro 255lph HP pump, 3bar map sensor, greddy profec b boost controller, neptune
Tuning at 17psi on mix of 93 octane and Sunoco cam2:
Car has been getting beat on for the last few weeks daily driven at this power level, with no issues at all. The open stock diff is proving to make this power level useless at being put down. This engine has well over 100,000 miles and has already hit 12.0~12.2 @ 112-113mph with only 250whp this past season, with well over 90 passes at the track and daily driven.
The plan is to see how long the engine lasts at this power level, see how fast it can get in the 1/4 with a diff and possibly larger slicks. I have no doubt that this engine will last awhile.
Thread Starter
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HCF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 677
RE: turbo'd d15
ORIGINAL: Marty
Stock sleeves on a good tune are good to around 500whp, the D15B is a good engine to build from, it's a little more rev freindly than the Z6. I suggested the akmee type s cam package and a slightly larger turbo. Your stock engine will be good up to around 235 or so whp and 200+wtq stock on a good tune. This much power is a good area on the street for 98% of people.
*edit*
D series rods are a weak point dont get me wrong but with the correct tuning they can still hold power.
Stock sleeves on a good tune are good to around 500whp, the D15B is a good engine to build from, it's a little more rev freindly than the Z6. I suggested the akmee type s cam package and a slightly larger turbo. Your stock engine will be good up to around 235 or so whp and 200+wtq stock on a good tune. This much power is a good area on the street for 98% of people.
*edit*
D series rods are a weak point dont get me wrong but with the correct tuning they can still hold power.
I'm just saying 12 psi until I get it sleeved, or whatever I need to do for the cylinder support.
Thanks Again
HCF Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 298
From: East Palatka FL
RE: turbo'd d15
the average newbie that is turboing a 100k+ mile engine will ruin it on 12psi. there is nothing wrong with that statement. i could run 12psi and maybe even you could run 12psi on a stock d15b but with the questions he is asking he will blow it up
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,519
From: South Central
RE: turbo'd d15
well 12 psi is a blanket statement because 12psi from a t25 is not that much pressure compared to say a gt30 or something. I had a JDM D15B boosted in a 98 sedan with a t25 at 9psi and made 173whp and ran 14 flats in the 1/4 mile along with driving the **** out of it everyday. 8000rpm shifts, 4000rpm launches, and the engine right now is in a eg hatch all motor beating up on bolt on gsr tegs