I was just wondering if anyone knew what the weight difference between a B18 and an H22 is? I want my car to handel as good as it does now, so I'm worried about having a bulky *** H22 up there.

Also, what do you guys thing about this engine. I've never seen an H22 type-s before. I'd like to stay N/A, and I like that 163 ft. lbs of torque there. When summer comes around again I was thinking I'll have about a $5,000 budget for the new engine, and this falls in there. Would guys just stick with the regular H22, I gathered that the B18C5 is a rip off and it's better to just get the C1 and do a couple mods. Same with this thing?

What do you think is the best option for around $5,000? B18C1 with mild boost, B18C5, H22, H22 type-s?..

I was thinking B18C1 with a small turbo but now that I'm looking at this H22 I'm curious. I like the LSD too, seems like it'd be a nice thing to have with FWD. Oh, and I'd like something I can really rev hard... the redline of hte H22 isn't listed there but I'm assuming it's way below the B18's. Any way to get the H22 to scream up to 9,000 rpm without blowing up?

Bottom line: I'm looking for the most amount of power without anything too drastic that I can drive everyday and still push around corners, I'm an S-turn junkie. With a budget of about $5,000 and a preference twards N/A and high revs.

 

The weight diff is about 50 lbs, so it's definitely noticable.

The H22 Type S isn't really worth the extra money ($5,000 is pretty ridiculous for any H22). Given $5,000 to spend, a bored, built, and boosted GSR would be my first choice, followed by a bored all motor C5. However, an H22 swap is cheaper than a GSR and will give you more torque right off the bat. Long-term, I would still recommend a boosted GSR since they're so ridiculously expandable.

The H22 doesn't hold up to abuse as well as a B series would, especially under boost (since the cylinder walls are thinner and it isn't balanced as well from the factory). It's definitely possible to get it to the same level, but it takes significant internal work and careful balancing.

 

I think I'm with you on the B series Kappa, I'm pretty sure I'll be a lot happier with the lower weight, higher revs and greatter expandability.

Now, B18C1 or C5?.. I'm thinking that either one I'll want to run N/A, and either one will probably be rebuilt. Is the C5 worth the extra money with all the work it already has done or would it be better to go with the C1 and rebuild everything to eclipse the C5?.. I doubt I'll want to have it bored, maybe stroked though. When built up what kind of compression ratios are possable? I've seen pistions that will take it all the way up to 12+:1. Also, what kind of power can I expect? Also, what kind of revs are we talking... the C5 can hit 9k without too much work right?

Now I know some of you will say B16 head and turbo, like you always do... not happenin. Any info on any of this/all the other stuff at the top is greatly appriciated though.

Sacs, you just have an intake on that C1 right? Any future plans for it?

 

If u get the GSR and run all motor youd be doing pretty well. Figure some cams, intake, full exhaust, skunk 2 intake mani, thing should move pretty damn good.

 

Exactly what I was thinkin pcupo. Maybe up the compression at bit, at least to that of the C5.

What's the deal with port and polish, isn't that what the C5 has over the C1 besides cams and compression?

 

Id go with the B18C1, its what Ive got. It gives you all kinds of flexibility, and has more options.

If you want the factory port polish, youre going to need to do a head swap to a B16

 

or C5 right? B16 head would kill my compression, which I'm betting I want as high as possable in a N/A engine.

 

if you have a $5000 budget, get a C1, get it sleeved and bored by a very good machine shop, going to about 85mm bore, and dont stroke it if you want the high redline, and get the head ported and polished. shoot for about 11.5:1-11.8:1 compression. you really dont want to go much higher than that. the gains arent really worth the hassles you will have trying to get the damn thing fed good enough fuel, and tuning it will be a bear. then get a very big set of cams, like Toda Spec Bs if you want to do auto-x or track days, or Skunk2 stage 3s if you want to concentrate on drag racing. if you get the Todas, get their valvetrain as well, as they seem to work best with their own. strap it together with a Greddy or Toda timing belt, and hold EVERYTHING possible with ARP hardware. hey Kappa, the Type R oil pump pumps a little faster, doesnt it? if so, use that, or look into a dry sump. then get an electric water pump ( i think that it uses a proprietary T-belt, so compromise on a few of my plans if need be) an Exedy flywheel and stage 2 clutch. then do all of the good bolt-ons, IM, FPR, header, CAI, Random Tech cat, cat-back,cam-gears, and a Hondata ECU. and make sure you get either the GSR LSD, a Type R tranny, or an aftermarket LSD, as this setup will be useless without one. this is pretty close to blowing your budget, but once all is said and done, you will have one of the fastest all-motor civics around. oh, and dont you dare attempt to tune this thing yourself, get it on a dyno with the best Honda tuner in your area.

















if no one noticed, i have thought of this scenerio once or twice

 

Exactly what I'm looking for for!

I knew you'd be the man to answer this one sacs. Be sure when this all goes down, I'll have a million plus questions for ya.

Any idea on the redline or power numbers for that thing?

 

Not sure about the oil pump question, but I'll look into it. And I would definitely recommend a dry sump system for a build like that.