"what have you done to your civic today?"
HCF Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 428
From: Copperas Cove, TX
I replaced my D4 gauge light bulb with my D2 light bulb. Also I "attempted" to make my clock display blue, but failed..so I took the purple shaded glass off the clock display and now instead of seeing a white time display..it is now green...like "1987 sony VCR display green"...but it's brighter!
Seems like every weekend I have something new to do.
Got rid of the horrible wheel hop I sometimes get going into 1st and 2nd gear by installing some Hasport 62A Motor Mounts and Energy Suspension Polyurethane Torque Mount Inserts.
The torque mounts were straight forward and easy to install, same with the transmission mount.
For the drivers side mount I had to shave the corner of the bracket that holds the power steering fluid as it was binding against the thicker motor mount. And because of the thicker mount I had to somewhat raise the hose that sits around the mount, which led me to having to raise the cruise control actuator to make room for the hose. Really no difficulty getting everything to fit.
The biggest pain in the *** was the rear mount. There's hardly any room for movement to access all the bolts, an extension was needed for practically everything there. I eventually got all but one bolt removed, the upper bolt that secures the bracket to the chassis.
I had part of it out, but the bolt kept spinning and wasn't coming out any further. Tried pulling on it, still stuck in place. So I went underneath the car to see if the end of the bolt was out of the nut on the other side, I could still see it. So I try to loosen it while keeping an eye on the end, again hardly any room to maneuver a socket wrench, and as I'm barely loosening it I don't see the tip of the bolt spinning. First thought was I snapped it since it was the most difficult to break loose. Well I tried again to loosen and tug and it came right out, bolt still intact. Would've sucked to break a bolt in a bracket I couldn't remove from the car without having to detach nearly every line/hose near it.
For a while there I thought about securing the stock rear mount and having a shop take care of it but I eventually got it out and putting it back in was a breeze.
Started the car after all was done and noticed on reverse and normal driving the car felt more responsive on take off. It does add some more vibration to the interior, but the 2 main spots it was rattling was coming from the panel underneath the steering wheel and where the radio/center console mounts. Should be a quick easy fix
Sorry for the novel, just glad I was able to do everything myself
Got rid of the horrible wheel hop I sometimes get going into 1st and 2nd gear by installing some Hasport 62A Motor Mounts and Energy Suspension Polyurethane Torque Mount Inserts.
The torque mounts were straight forward and easy to install, same with the transmission mount.
For the drivers side mount I had to shave the corner of the bracket that holds the power steering fluid as it was binding against the thicker motor mount. And because of the thicker mount I had to somewhat raise the hose that sits around the mount, which led me to having to raise the cruise control actuator to make room for the hose. Really no difficulty getting everything to fit.
The biggest pain in the *** was the rear mount. There's hardly any room for movement to access all the bolts, an extension was needed for practically everything there. I eventually got all but one bolt removed, the upper bolt that secures the bracket to the chassis.
I had part of it out, but the bolt kept spinning and wasn't coming out any further. Tried pulling on it, still stuck in place. So I went underneath the car to see if the end of the bolt was out of the nut on the other side, I could still see it. So I try to loosen it while keeping an eye on the end, again hardly any room to maneuver a socket wrench, and as I'm barely loosening it I don't see the tip of the bolt spinning. First thought was I snapped it since it was the most difficult to break loose. Well I tried again to loosen and tug and it came right out, bolt still intact. Would've sucked to break a bolt in a bracket I couldn't remove from the car without having to detach nearly every line/hose near it.
For a while there I thought about securing the stock rear mount and having a shop take care of it but I eventually got it out and putting it back in was a breeze.
Started the car after all was done and noticed on reverse and normal driving the car felt more responsive on take off. It does add some more vibration to the interior, but the 2 main spots it was rattling was coming from the panel underneath the steering wheel and where the radio/center console mounts. Should be a quick easy fix
Sorry for the novel, just glad I was able to do everything myself
HCF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 58
today?
Well I kicked her when she didn't want to start, then i apologized for the kicking when she finally did start, took her to fill up the tank, checked her fluids... and added some air to the back passenger tire it looked a little low and it was. thats it today.
Well I kicked her when she didn't want to start, then i apologized for the kicking when she finally did start, took her to fill up the tank, checked her fluids... and added some air to the back passenger tire it looked a little low and it was. thats it today.
HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 226
From: AZ
Hey everyone im back. I have just been driving my Civic its still my DD. So of you may know I have a B18b1 swap. I have picked up a PR3-4 B16 head for my Ls bottom end. As of now the head is completely taken apart for P&P and the machine shop. I found that it has has the LMAs upgraded to the new spring type or to H22 LMAs. Picking up a Vtec Valve cover today. I cant wait to have a Ls Vtec and hear that Vtec crack.
