Wow. I hope mine never breaks.

I think it would be easier to just commit to pull the whole dash out, which really isn't that hard though it sounds daunting.

 

Okay, Sweet! Thanks Punisher for all the great advice and photos to back up your explanation. Now I just need to get those photos of the other "Stay part" taken and posted.

 

I've tried to tip out the dash. I'm not afraid to do it or anything. Worse thing that could happen would be me break it. And if that happened - i'd just make a custom fiberglass dash. My rule: If it breaks- make it even better.
I've found the bolts on the sides, and the one in the middle. Where's the rest of um?

 

So I'm finally getting some time to rip apart my car and attempt to remove that clutch pedal. Thanks to you guys on this forum... I downloaded a very descriptive manual. That will at least help me remove the dash and the drivers seat. I think once I can get the dash outta the way... then removal and replacement of the clutch pedal will be easy. Crossing fingers! Wish me luck!

 

Oh... Punisher... here is a PDF of the manual that I downloaded... hope it's not too late for you.

...

Okay... change of plans... I can send the file directly to you via "yousendit".

Is that okay... if so and you want the manual just send me a "private message" with your email and I'll shoot it over to you.

 

That PDF didn't work for me.
Anyways - I found some pictures of the dash and how to remove. Will be for 84-95 civc/crx/del sol:

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

 

Wow... talk about putting things off.

I just got the car fixed. I never made time after spending a couple weekends trying to rip that thing out. I didn't find a manual that had enough detail on removing that particular part. So I tried doing it anyway... got pretty far but just ended up finding more bolts. When I realized that you cannot just remove the Clutch Bracket (shown in earlier pics)--without removing the entire Pedal assembly from the firewall--I decided to throw in the towel. Found a buddy that does sheet-metal fabrication and custom hot-rods... gave the whole thing to him to do... cause at that point... I'd had it.

So my suggestion are this:

If you don't have a lot of time... just have a welder clamp and weld it in place, removing only necessary things to gain access to the part of course. Most of my labor cost was from him putting back together what I tore apart. The welding didn't actually take that much time. Make sure he reinforces the piece for extra support.

I guess time will tell to see how well the welded piece holds up... but even if it cracks again way down the line... and I still have the car... he can just fix it again.

I don't think it's worth the trouble to try and rip it out and replace it yourself. First of all... I had a hell of a time trying to find that particular part... and secondly... I imagine that it would be expensive to special order it. Then you have to put it back in. Save yourself some time and get a pro.

Anyone disagree? Punisher, how did it work out for you?

 

Hey Guys,

I'd like to update the status of the clutch bracket that I had fixed this past summer.

It recently started giving me more problems shifting again. I checked underneath the dash and saw the the bracket was breaking again. This time, just outside the weld were it was repaired. Since welding is always going to be stronger than the metal it is mending, the next weakest point would be just outside the weld.

Honda dropped the ball on the design of this whole pedal fixture. When I move the clutch pedal with my hand, I could see that not only is the bracket flexing, but the whole firewall that it is mounted to moving and bending. So any welding of the bracket itself won't matter as the foundation is the next weakest point.

So, what I suggest you do if you are trying to fix one of these broken brackets, is have you local welder fashion you an outboard support bar for that bracket to eliminate any movement or torquing from the bracket.

What my welder did, was bolt one end of some steal bar to the C-clamp of the steering collumn just above the bracket and the other end to the "clutch height adjustment bolt".

This completely isolated the movement of the bracket. That sucker ain't going anywhere now.

I'll get underthere again an take some pictures for you guys when I get a chance.

anyone else have the same problem with a different answer?

 

When you weld the part as is, the heat from the weld weakens the metal around the weld. This is what caused yours to break again. You must re-enforce the area. I recommend re-enforcing the top of the broken assembly area with a piece of square metal. Try using the same guage metal as factory. This will make a strong weld, and keep you from burning from the factory metal and causing more harm.

I'd love to see pictures of your set up sir. I'll hopefully have another 90 hatch soon, and may ha to do a writeup on fixing the problem before it happens.

 

@PunisherInOKC:
I mentioned reinforcing the bracket to my welder and he said that it would be of no use. If you check back, I mentioned that the Firewall itself was flexing along with the bracket. So as the bracket may not flex if reinforced, the firewall posed as a possible next flexing point. That's why we opted to fashion an outboard stress bar to stabilize the entire pedal assembly... using only one bar and two bolts.

I really should get off my but and take some dang pictures of my car already.
I'll post those soon when I get back home to her where she's waiting. I love my EF, just wish I had money to dress her up.