Just brought a 97 civic ex new to Hondas. I have a cold air intake but was wondering if there's anything easy ways for extra hp?

 

Research. You cannot get much power out of a D series unless you boost, or swap the motor out

 

I am goin to boost it but not sure what internals to upgrade.... Where can I buy a 25 cent resistor

 

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. You are a complete idiot if you do that. Please don't crap up this forum with something like the above post again.

How much extra fuel is going into the motor? What are the new AFRs? What if the gas is literally dumping into the engine, flooding it, leaking past the piston rings, into the oil, ruining the lubrication properties of the oil, causing the bottom of the motor to go boom?

Research on what is needed. There are MORE than enough threads of people's build on this and other forums, as well as parts needed lists for turbocharging a motor.

 

What I believe his point was, is that this is flat bad advice. How do you intend on making sure there's enough air? How do you even know HOW MUCH extra fuel is being delivered? That type of approach is shoddy at best, and very dangerous at worst.

 

Ok thanks for the advice. Can someone give me a web link that shows what needs to be changed for turbo. Cuz everything I find is some bs

 

You have no clue what you are talking about. Have you installed this resistor crap before? Do you know what it does? How much fuel it dumps in? How long it keeps your injectors open for? Did you know if the injector are open too long, they can get stuck open and flood your engine/and begin to leak when the car is not even running?

Again, a 25 cent resistor can destroy your motor. DO NOT DO THIS.

And furthermore, Axis, You say he doesn't need this since he is going boost? You know a forced induction set-up just basically forces extra... wait for it... AIR into the motor, and then you need to compensate with extra fuel? So assuming you think extra air and fuel will add power, why would you suggest he NOT use a resistor on a FI build, but rather on a N/A build, where the stock fuel system is more than plenty, even with a pretty much built D series????

Many people stick with stock injectors, get them cleaned, and turn up the fuel pressure, too. There is more than way to get more fuel into the motor, without tricking the ECU.

Again, I suggest that NO ONE makes changes to fuel systems unless they know what they are doing, and plan on getting tuned. If you plan on doing the tuning your self, you better have a REAL AFR gauge and a REAL wideband o2 sensor.

Exactly.

I'll repeat what I said before. Remember, we have people asking this question on a weekly basis, so do not take it as me being condescending. - Research on what is needed. There are MORE than enough threads of people's build on this and other forums, as well as parts needed lists for turbocharging a motor. -

After you do your research and understand how each part of the system operates come back and ask as many specific questions you want. Of course, please search first. If you still don't find the answer to your specific question, post up. We are not here to spoon feed information.

 

Still.... a terrible idea if you have no way of monitoring the AFRs.

I don't believe the power gains. Butt dynos do not count either. Show me a dyno chart. You can increase mid-range, and lose top end, and vice versa, and think it is gaining you power here and there. A modification like this should increase power and torque throughout the entire power band.

Did his butt dyno not work?

You keep talking about this fuel increase and all that crap. How are you getting more air in the motor? Are you getting a bigger TB, or port matching the intake manifold? If not, the same amount of air is going into the motor regardless of the size of the intake (to a point). All that air is bottle necking into the TB. It is all about velocity and density when referring to air. I'll go into this more if you would like.

If your argument about this is entirely about tricking the ECU into thinking the air is colder, then you do not have to bring up anything about intakes, or supporting mods on the motor, since the ECU is being tricked anyways. If the ECU sees colder air temps, timing will be changed, not just fuel. How much is timing being changed? Oh wait.. you have no idea.

EDIT - Lastly, you do what you want. You can continue to post this type of "tuning" on the forum, but believe me, I will be right there posting behind you telling the person that it is wrong and SHOULD NOT be done for the various reasons I have been mentioning. If the person doesn't have the money to "play", then don't get involved. If they start cheaping out on crap, then run out of money, and something cheap breaks I can imagine that the car will be "abused" and modded in the same fashion. This is when the owner gets frustrated, sells it, and then we have to help the next owner fix everything correctly due to the PO half assing everything. That is what your fuel mod is, a half *** attempt at tuning. Stop telling people to half *** their car is what I am trying to say I guess. Nothing personal.

/rant.

 

I am absolutely loving that this is what I come back to after a several month posting hiatus

To the OP: the D16Y8 bottom end is good for 200whp and you can probably safely push 250 out of it with a good tune. Beyond that, I'd look at upgrading internals. If you want a little more power (and a much sexier idle), look into adding a cam with a profile designed for use with turbochargers. You'll probably need to upgrade the springs/retainers as well. I would highly recommend keeping the OEM valves though.

 

Ok thanks for all the suggestion