Soo after I get this B18C in my EF, about how fast is this gonna be? I'm assuming I'll be able to outrun stock mustangs and maro's?? or will I have to put a little more work into it for that.?

The plan is to turbo the B18C, possibly aroun 220hp is the goal.

 

When's the last time you saw a stock gsr run down a stock mustang/camaro? You're going to need a little work done to it before you can run down a stock mustang or camaro (assuming you can even find one that's still stock).

Honestly, If I had a b18c and was planning on boosting it, I'd set my goal a little higher than 220. I mean, the block's good for 350whp. Personally, I'd aim for 260-275 at the wheels, but that's just me.

 

actually i was going for the Type R motor, and I thought there was quite a bit of difference in weight ratio's between integra's and 89 hb civics..

this is all good input though.. I wanna hear this stuff. I'm really new to civics and actually really new to modifying anything on a vehicle

 

Oh, okay... that makes a bit of a difference. The straight-up B18C (I was thinking you meant b18c1 since most people just drop the 1 when they mention it) makes a good bit more power (just over 200bhp I believe), but it has fairly high compression. Honestly, if you plan on boosting, I'd recommend just getting a b18c1 from a gsr and turboing it. You'll be saving quite a bit of money that you can, in turn, use for the turbo build, not to mention you won't have to worry about the CR being too high. I really wouldn't trust a turbo'd engine running 11:1 compression like the B18c has.

As far as the weight difference, yes the EF chassis weighs less than the integra (2160lbs vs. 2530lbs). But the thing about weight is it doesn't make an enormous difference. I believe the rule of thumb is for every 100lbs of sprung weight (weight supported by the springs) you drop, your 1/4-mile time is dropped by 1/10 of a second. So an EF hatch with a b18c1 would be almost .4s faster in the quarter mile than a stock integra gsr. But you also have to remember you're talking about trying to beat a 260hp car that makes over 300ft*lbs of torque. Enzo Ferrari was dead-on when he said "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." Of course, a mustang gt weighs around 3500lbs (I believe), so you'll have over 1,000lbs less to move than the mustang, but you have to remember that with a good driver, it's entirely possible to take a GT into the high 13's in the quarter.

As far as modifying cars, I assume you've already heard the "air pump" analogy? Or are at least familiar with how an engine works and why people do what they do to make more power?

 

i'm familiar with how an engine works. but not the "air pump" thing.

 

so for about $2000-3000 how much horsepower can i expect to gain from a turbo kit on a b18c, this is all stuff that someone who has previous experience would know, and I dont.

 

The air pump analogy is just comparing an engine to an air pump; the more air you can get through it as fast as possible, the more power it makes.

For $3k, you could piece together one H**L of a turbo kit, to be honest. Most custom turbo kits (I'm talking buying everything individually, not going to GReddy's web site and buying their kit) are in the $2k range, and the people making them usually hit 200whp without really trying. For $3k, if you plan out everything well, you could easily be sitting at 350whp. I'd recommend reading over some of our stickies. I found the forced induction sticky very helpful when I first started learning about turbos.

*ninja edit (that turned out to be not so ninja-y =[ ): as far as piecing together a turbo kit, we have one or two stickies about it; if you can't find either one, let me know and I'll get you a link. Both stickies tell you exactly what you need to buy, what you don't need to buy, what you might want to buy, etc. Also, the only part (should you decide to piece together a setup) you can confidently buy new from an ebay seller is the intercooler; anything other than an intercooler, I'd go brand name.