Replace the brake shoes. After that, the brake liquid runs out from the valve opening which is covered by a rubber cap, when stepping on brake pedal. Apply pedal harder, the cap is flashed away.

Try to tighten or loosen it, but it does not move. WD40 does not help either.

Do I need to tighten it harder?

 

Did you loosen the bleeder when you replaced the shoes?

 

Thanks for your anwsers and question.

When I replaced the shoes, the poiston was out from wheel cylinder. I thought there was air in it. so I tried to loose the bleeder valve nut. I don't think I moved it because it is very hard and I applied WD40 too. Now it seems I did make it turned, maybe just 90 degree.

Now it is still very hard to turn it in or out. It seems I need to tighten it. Is the 90 degree turn enough?

I tried to search from Internet to see how this valve works, but failed. can anyone tell ne or provide a link?

Thanks!

 

90 degrees might be enough. Try taking the bleeder all the way out. Or see if you can tighten it. WD40 is not the best at penetrating rusted bolts and things. I'd try something a little more heavy duty like P.B blaster. You can find it about anywhere and it's magic in a can.

 

If you can't get it to turn, you will need to replace the whole cylinder or caliper to get one with a working valve.

Be very careful not to get any magic in a can into the brake fluid. Contaminating a brake system by having anything other than brake fluid in the lines will destroy all the rubber seals.

 

^+1 Forgot about that.

 

I tried to turn the nut again. No hope, the nut is a little bit round. It does not move either direction. I doubt how I could turn it from very beginning. I even think the valve has been broken for a while (it is not upright), and the liquid has been hold by that rubber cap. Is that possible for Honda Civic 2001 EX?

If the poiston is pushed out from wheel cylinder and insert it back in my case, is there air left inside the wheel cylinder? Do we need to get the air out if there is?

 

As mk says, replace the entire wheel cylinder. The cost at Majestic Honda is $23 (http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry 2=2000&catcgry3=2DR+EX&catcgry4=4AT&catcgry5=REAR+ BRAKE+(DRUM)+(1)&vinsrch=yes). I assume the cost at your local auto parts store would be similar. After the brake assembly has been removed, replacing the wheel cylinder is a relatively straightforward job. You must bleed the system after the job is done.

 

well first off all NEVER use a open end wrench on any brake lines or bleeder valves you will strip the head right off and then your forced to use some vise grips on the bleeder valve to remove it and then replace the bleeder valve with a new one!

most likely you just stripped the head. it will be tight BUT it shouldnt be seized. but dont worry about any PB spray into the brake system because WHEN EVER you loosen a brake line you have to bleed the brakes. otherwise you have air in the system and your brakes are mushie and crap!

since you already rounded the head off the valve you could also TRY a striped head socket if the vis grips dont work.

just remember NEVER use a open end wrench on them again! always use the boxed side and its the right size wrench of course and if the valve is still sticking then out a socket on it and break it loose that way. once its moved 1/4inch its free, tighten the bleeder just hand tight and then switch back to a boxed wrench.... it only takes about 1/4 turn on the bleeder valve to open it up.


and for your front piston you have to push it back into the caliper. you can simply use a C clamp to screw the piston back in. or you can buy a tool to push the piston back in but a large C clamp works just fine. just keep pushing it in till its flush with the caliper.

as long as you dont open up the bleeder valve or lines there shouldnt be any air in the system... BUT you should still bleed the brakes to get rid of all the old brake fluid. its very easy. a simple clear hose that fits tight on the bleeders tip and tape the hose up HIGH so the fluid has to travel upwards which also helps any air bubbles since they will run right up the hose alot easier than if you where trying to push the bubbles out if the hose was just laying on the floor....

and you WILL be able to see when all the old fluid is bleed out... the old fluid will be brownish and the new fluid will be clean and almost clear! just remember after every 5 pumps or so GET OUT and refill the brake fluid and bleed from every wheel till all the fluid bleed thru is clean.... JUST NEVER NEVER NEVERRRRRRRRRRR let the brake fluid run dry in the master cylinder!!!! if you do you have to start al over and do every wheel otherwise you will have air in the lines and again crappy UNSAFE brakes!!!


always read up when it comes to brakes before you do any work! without good brakes you will wreck into someone which is a huge risk to take! if you dont know or trust yourself with doing brakes then i would highly suggest getting it done by a brake shop and if you already messed with the brakes then have your car TOWED to the shop!!!!!!! DO NOT RISK DRIVING THE CAR TO THE SHOP OR YOU HIGHLY LIKELY WRECK YOUR CAR INTO SOMEONE! DONT RISK IT!

 

Thanks all for your answers.

I decide to replace the wheel cylinder. What is the part name which is a thin pipe between the cylinder and hose? It is stuck on the cylindr too. I have to buy it from local store and replace it too.

Just wondering, the local store does not sell the bleeder valve nut even if I could remove it.

You mention even the poiston is out, there is no air inside the cylinder after the positon is inserted back. Are you sure? It is open to air, and the air will be compressed into by the positon. That is why I thought I would need to bleed. If it really does not need, that is me to create this troube.