I just happened to stumble upon Tips and Tricks thread, and got a few objections to ProjectGSR about tips and tricks he posted there. Since sacicons asked not to post comments there, I’m opening this thread for discussion. I would not bother with this, if it wouldn’t be in the tips and tricks thread, which is supposed to enlighten others – so I think it might be useful to clarify those issues…

Do you have dyno chart supporting this?

EGR is designed to reduce engine emission. By disabling it, you add to the harm we are collectively doing to our environment. And, I believe it makes your car street illegal. And, to the best of my knowledge, ECM shuts down EGR valve at full throttle, what makes this mod somewhat pointless…

Two points here. First is emission, because no breather would clean the exhaust completely. Second, when this breather gets clogged (and it will eventually), be prepared for some nasty surprises from your engine…

Do you have any data supporting this? I saw a thread on this somewhere. Opinions were mixed, at best. I personally think it will hurt the engine cooling, and provide a not so healthy supply of under-the-hood air (especially from the breather you already installed) into cabin through cabin air intake.

Engine has been designed to operate best at some particular temperature. What makes you thinking it will operate better on the temperature it has not been designed for? Do you have dyno charts to support this?

I’m sorry, but I believe this is a complete nonsense. Are you aware that there is an optimal timing for every combination of engine running parameters ( octane, air/fuel, rpm, load, etc.)? Do you know that advancing your timing out of optimal value will hurt your performance and will lead to detonation? Do you know how much research goes into building optimal timing map? Do you know that stock car comes with this map built in? Do you know how much work is needed to properly tune the timing map after serious engine mods? Please, don’t take shortcuts here, it does not do any good, and it will hurt. If your engine is stock, stick with original timing, if you got serious mods, have it seriously tuned.

I’m just wandering why automakers keep having those shields there. They cost money to produce and install, so there should be some reason. Your temp concern is probably valid for a race car, but does not make much sense for a daily driver, I think. I wouldn’t mess up with something I do not fully understand.

I don’t think Honda engineers are complete idiots. In fact, I think they knew what they were doing, and adjusted the input processing accordingly.

 

Jeez someone like picking on Project GSR...

 

It's nothing personal. Post is in sticky area, and supposed to be a guide for others. I believe it is not entirely correct, though...

 

i have advanced my timing and my idol is fine plus they engineered your mapping to adjust to small changes liek this one its no big deal because I have had it advanced for two years now. You right though, you should have your car adjusted and tuned accordingly.

 

i just say if your willing to try these things than go right ahead, it's not like they can hold you responcable.

 

too much to bother going over it all. same reason I didnt respond to the original post like I should have. a few of those are pretty sketchy. like the spark plug thing---you should torque them to a certain tightness, not a position. if you have 1/8 of a turn left to get it lined up the way you want, so you go a little lighter than specified, you can strip the threads out of the head. and fuel should be pretty well atomized by the time the spark plug fires anyway. and the brake dust shields/ I did that to my stock brakes (a long time ago) and they dusted up my wheels within a day of driving, so no, I dont suggest that either. and the IAT relocation is playing with fire. its not like you (PGSR) said, that its reading hotter than it should. its calibrated for where it is, so by you putting it where its cooler, youre effectively changing your fuel and ignition timing maps to those of a very cold ambient temperature, so if its hot outside, or you get a bad tank of gas, you will get detonation and can destroy a motor.

There is some merit to some of it though, and without understanding what was meant and how its employed, it may sound like a bad idea. Like the advancing the timing. he should have given a point of reference. I ran advanced timing on my stock motor and it made a huge difference. but you need to set it for 18* BTDC, which is still in factory specs, then run premium fuel to make up for it. and youre only advancing the base value, then the ecu compensates accordingly, but with a slightly more advanced value than it would at the normal 16* BTDC.

I could go on, but its late, and ive got to go to bed. if everyone wants me to go edit his original post to be more specific and to have more founded info, then let me know and i will, but im not going to go editing the content of peoples posts if its not what pretty much everybody wants.

 

I responded to that stuff somewhere else, I thought it was in that thread but maybe not. I said that I strongly suggest researching these things further before attempting any of them. and I stand by that. People shouldn't start hacking things apart before fully understanding WHY they are doing it

 

yes i have dyno charts for everything, i have a different car for each of those mods at my private testing facility in Germany. I'll call Hans and have him fax over the charts to you right away, but keep them out of Nissan's hands, theyv been sending spies after me for a while now.

 

Its s*** i got from a tuner, YES, research stuff before you do it, research changing out your exhaust, research putting on a CAI, research how to open your hood in your owners manual when your standing there poking your fingers under the hood trying to find the latch, this is stuff some people do, i thought i would put it up here...sorry guys. and misha i dont think i would want you to try these, there for performance cars or cars that have at least over 12 hp.....

 

Some of these things I can agree with, some... not so much. As for the spark plugs... it's called indexing... you get indexing rings so that when you put them in, you can get them tight while still indexing it. It's been a tuning "secret" for years... personally, it's too much work for the gains you get.... Advancing the timing has also been around for a long time... the rest of the things... I'd have to check 'em out... taking off the dust covers... I'd rather let my brakes be hot than deal with brake dust... EGR Block-off... not too enthusiastic about that... it's an emissions control, which as misha stated... makes your car non-street legal. Breather - personal choice... no performance gains that I've ever seen... hood cowl - no thanks... Low temp thermostat - did it on my Z-28... didn't see much improvement. I had a hard time keeping my engine cool at the track... thought this would help.. nope. Installed a manual fan switch... helped a little... iced the intake... helped a LOT IAT relocate... I agree with the others, the manufacturers set it up the way they did on purpose.... I would test and research before I messed with it.