Do I "have" to purchase a wide-band o2 sensor for everything to work and read properly? As I'm sure you know the cost difference is pretty amazing...lol

 

Look at the o2 sensor itself. How many wires coming from it? If 5, you have lean burn and you must get a replacement 5 wire o2 sensor. The standard 4 wire will not work.

I was lucky and found someone who had a lightly used OEM 5 wire o2 sensor for $160 shipped. I see them go on eBay for like $180-$190 (non-OEM however). This is the price we pay to save all that gas and get like 45-50 mpgs!

 

Welcome to the dark side. How much did you pay it?

 

Well I'll double check the sensor...I think it's 5 wire...and damn it...lol

As for how much I paid for the Civic...cheap...real cheap ;-)

 

I have a 5 wire...damn it...lol

 

^^ Yea, I figured it was a 5 wire. To my knowledge there weren't many 4 wire VX's (only the ones which had a destination in CA I think).

Have you attempted to unplug the o2 sensor to simply be able to drive it? How bad of a hesitation is it?

My VX still hesitates slightly every once in awhile, but that is when I am pressing on the gas to get it out of lean burn mode when accelerating and it is not that big of a deal, probably normal. Before I had to almost take the pedal to the floor to get it to go and it would back fire once or twice, then take off.

 

Hu...I posted a post and it didn't make it here.

Anyhoo, I did unplug the o2 sensor, the CE light came on right away and it drove MUCH better. But my mpg suffered a hell of a lot...lol (as I thought it would). I've started looking into finding an o2 sensor that will replace mine but not cost a fortune (probably not gonna happen...lol)

On a separate note I pulled the tires off the rear to try and get a look at the rear drums...and yeah...that aint gonna happen anytime soon...lol. Those things are seized on there pretty well. So I'll be doing some work on the rear brakes over the next few months. I'll have to work on the fronts as well but I can see how messed up they are...lol.

 

And my "hesitation" is a lot less of an issue than yours it sounds like. I still get a good solid pull with out any backfiring or anything and I don't have to push anywhere near the floor to get it past it's "dead spot"

 

Was your e-brake on when you attempted to remove the drums? If so, thats why you were having a hard time.

If the e brake was not on, how did you attempt to remove them? I would assume you tried prying it open? If so, there is an easier way. Remove a 12mm bolt from the IAC (back of the intake manifold). That is the correct thread pitch and length for you to screw into the drums to push the drums off the trailing arm. Just make sure to put it back in the engine bay when you are done!

 

The Ebrake was on (can't believe I didn't think of that...lol)

I knew I could screw a bolt in there to "pull" the drum off. And that was my plan later ;-)

Thanks for the tip on bolt location though!!