Project HCF
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HCF Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 11,248
From: Charleston
RE: Project HCF Movie Update
Here is the car revving and waht not. If you have good headphones or a good sound system you should get the full effect.
http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Lives_SM-1.flv
http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Lives_SM-1.flv
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
From:
RE: Project HCF Near Completion
Not gonna try to insult/argue with anyone here. I just thought Jeff Evans had some interesting things to say about engine break in. People are probably getting tired of me quoting that name around here lol, but his site and he himselfhave a wealth of information.
JE:
"A hard break in on the engine works. I am not even going to say that it doesnt, I have been around many people who subscribe to the hard break in train of thought. My only reservation to a hard break in is that if there is a problem, broken rings, improper bearing clearances, etc a hard break in will make these situations much worse then a gradual break in. For instance if with a hard break in the bearing clearances arent proper, you'll do some major damage at high rpm. This will score the crank, main journals, etc and you'll have to line hone your mains and purchase all new bearings. If per chance a oil/compression ring broke when installing them (this is fairly common), a hard break at high rpms will destroy both the piston ring location, and the cylinder wall. Not only will you have to re-bore the cylinder, but you'll need to purchase oversized pistons as well. With an easy break in you can catch the problems much quicker, and not have the rpm's as high taking a large toll if there is a problem with the engine build."
Basically, if you build everything right, a hard break in WILL yield better results.There's reputable sources all over theweb denouncing"vagina" break ins, andprasing thehard break in method.Put simply, the harder and more completely you can push out the rings, the better they will seal. That's not to say you can go out and just go crazy on your car the first time you take a seat in it, and everything will work out fine. Hard engine break inhas a proper procedure also,mostly prep work before the break in itself,but it is not insane, and does work. To comment on this post above, the way I see it, easy break in/easy use can make an engine last longer if an error has occured during the building process. However, this is merely prolonging the engine's inevitable death.
Some other posts by JE, refering to turbo app break in.
"When you are breaking in the engine, remove the wastegate spring in the wastegate. This bleeds off energy energy, and doesnt let the turbocharger make any boost. You can drive the car around and break the engine in, without having to worry about staying out of boost. You really should break the engine in with stock injectors and stock ecu. This way it eliminates any possibilty of larger injectors washing down the cylinder walls with fuel, and wiping out the rings."
"I have been putting 20-30 miles on freshly built blocks, then running boost through them. You have to have the fueling dead on with a fresh engine (around stoich). I do a compression test beforeI start tuning to establish a base compression spec for each cylinder. I then run the engines on the dyno varying the load/rpm with the proper fueling for about 5 miles. Pull the plugs, compression test the engine, then proceed. I do this until the compression per each cylinder does not increase. At this point the rings have seated themselves. Once this happens you can run as much boost as you want assuming that the ring gap and piston to wall clearance is done correctly."
JE:
"A hard break in on the engine works. I am not even going to say that it doesnt, I have been around many people who subscribe to the hard break in train of thought. My only reservation to a hard break in is that if there is a problem, broken rings, improper bearing clearances, etc a hard break in will make these situations much worse then a gradual break in. For instance if with a hard break in the bearing clearances arent proper, you'll do some major damage at high rpm. This will score the crank, main journals, etc and you'll have to line hone your mains and purchase all new bearings. If per chance a oil/compression ring broke when installing them (this is fairly common), a hard break at high rpms will destroy both the piston ring location, and the cylinder wall. Not only will you have to re-bore the cylinder, but you'll need to purchase oversized pistons as well. With an easy break in you can catch the problems much quicker, and not have the rpm's as high taking a large toll if there is a problem with the engine build."
Basically, if you build everything right, a hard break in WILL yield better results.There's reputable sources all over theweb denouncing"vagina" break ins, andprasing thehard break in method.Put simply, the harder and more completely you can push out the rings, the better they will seal. That's not to say you can go out and just go crazy on your car the first time you take a seat in it, and everything will work out fine. Hard engine break inhas a proper procedure also,mostly prep work before the break in itself,but it is not insane, and does work. To comment on this post above, the way I see it, easy break in/easy use can make an engine last longer if an error has occured during the building process. However, this is merely prolonging the engine's inevitable death.
Some other posts by JE, refering to turbo app break in.
"When you are breaking in the engine, remove the wastegate spring in the wastegate. This bleeds off energy energy, and doesnt let the turbocharger make any boost. You can drive the car around and break the engine in, without having to worry about staying out of boost. You really should break the engine in with stock injectors and stock ecu. This way it eliminates any possibilty of larger injectors washing down the cylinder walls with fuel, and wiping out the rings."
"I have been putting 20-30 miles on freshly built blocks, then running boost through them. You have to have the fueling dead on with a fresh engine (around stoich). I do a compression test beforeI start tuning to establish a base compression spec for each cylinder. I then run the engines on the dyno varying the load/rpm with the proper fueling for about 5 miles. Pull the plugs, compression test the engine, then proceed. I do this until the compression per each cylinder does not increase. At this point the rings have seated themselves. Once this happens you can run as much boost as you want assuming that the ring gap and piston to wall clearance is done correctly."
