Dealing with rusted on bolts
#3
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
which bolts? The ones to the engine of the ones to the cat?
With the engine there really isnt a lot you can do besides wd-40 A LOT, and have a lot of patience, but if you are having problems with the bolts connecting it to the cat you can just grind/torch those off and get new ones. That is what I had to do with my catback/cat bolts.
With the engine there really isnt a lot you can do besides wd-40 A LOT, and have a lot of patience, but if you are having problems with the bolts connecting it to the cat you can just grind/torch those off and get new ones. That is what I had to do with my catback/cat bolts.
#5
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
Rusted bolts:
Either WD40 them to death or get some penetrating oil or, no joke, "Nut Buster." It's like WD40 on crack.
Depending on where the bolts are, you can take a 1lb sledge, after you've let them soak in WD40, and give the bolts a solid, square, medium strength smack and that should shock some of the rust loose. Then, take a really long ratchet (more length=more torque) and SLOWLY start to twist the bolts off. If you snap one, you're TOTALLY FUXED and you'll have to get that bad boy drilled out and rethreaded.
Either WD40 them to death or get some penetrating oil or, no joke, "Nut Buster." It's like WD40 on crack.
Depending on where the bolts are, you can take a 1lb sledge, after you've let them soak in WD40, and give the bolts a solid, square, medium strength smack and that should shock some of the rust loose. Then, take a really long ratchet (more length=more torque) and SLOWLY start to twist the bolts off. If you snap one, you're TOTALLY FUXED and you'll have to get that bad boy drilled out and rethreaded.
#6
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
Get your engine alittle warmed up to help with loosening the rusted bolts and then try this stuff that i love called PB Blaster, i think advanced sells it, i have yet to have pb blaster fail on me
#7
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
like he said:
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
when yo go to remove it:
let the car run for a WHILE to heat it up
use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point one
get a reeeaally long breaker bar
if you replace your stock manifold with an aftermarket one, you won't be able to reattach the heat shield, because the mounting points are on the manifold itself.
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
when yo go to remove it:
let the car run for a WHILE to heat it up
use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point one
get a reeeaally long breaker bar
if you replace your stock manifold with an aftermarket one, you won't be able to reattach the heat shield, because the mounting points are on the manifold itself.
#8
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
^Shes hit the nail directly on the head. I only have one thing to add. Use caution, and make damn sure that your socket is PERFECTLY square with the nut. Mine was a little crooked when I removed my stock mani, and I ended up stripping one of the nuts on the outside, it was NOT fun.
#10
RE: Dealing with rusted on bolts
ORIGINAL: mxs
like he said:
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
like he said:
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
You could also add a small amount of anti-seize on the exposed threads before you start backing the nuts off.....that way it won't bind up on the residual junk on the way off.