So finally got my o2 simulator installed, could be a DIY if you wanted, but it was fairly straight forward. I snipped the o2 sensor wires and re-routed them to the simulator. Green to black (ground to ground), black to red (12V to 12V) and then Purple towhite (signal wires). Unfortunately, still have a CEL [:@]the 4th wire of the sensor the sensor heater wire, which i left just snipped, so now i'm pulling a code 65, which is telling me the sensor heater is broken [:@]so i have to order a resistor to fool the ECU into thinking the heater is working properly [:@]so still limpin', and this sh*t isnt even worth it since i'm gonna be OBD1 once the boost is complete. ANYWAY! heres a pic of it, tried to install it as clean as i could, might look a little haggard here but its actually really nice looking, the simulator lights up with a blinking ble LED when its working properly, so that looks pretty nice as well so all in all the simulator worked great, now time for a heater resistor [&:]

 

shouldn't have used wire caps. wire caps are used for house installation only. the reason behind this is a house doesn't vibrate and your car does.... A LOT. as a result, those are eventually gonna come off. when that happens, you'll have to redo the wiring. i suggest you get a crimper and put the wires together with butt splices (lol at the retarded name of the splice)

 

plus water will get in there and corrode the wiring. For applications like this, I suggest using heat shrink tubing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing

You can get it at Menards in the electrial dept.

OR, better yet... ...you can get butt splices that have heat shrink ends!!! Those are my favorite!!!
http://www.wiringproducts.com/?targe...FR6AWAodxDungg
You can also get these are Menards or some auto parts store have them!!

 

resistors are found at radio shack...

 

with my foglights, i had to extend a wire. the wire was in the cabin, and as i result, i only crimped the butt splice and didn't bother anymore with the heat shrink

 

alright, i think we've got a heat shrinker/tubing around here somewhere, i'll do that, thanks for hte advice guys

 

You werent supposed to cut those wires. I told you that before.

 

^ it was too late when you said that, i had already extended the wires, but now that i have the simulator they needed to be cut anyway

EDIT: and how would i have wired the simulator without cutting the wires??

 

you could always look into the extension cable from a DX header swap....
i cannt remember what company sold them with the header tho.... ya might be able to find just the wires.... i tried extending my O2 wires before and it just didnt work instant CEL light but that was cause my header was for a DX and not a EX... so i had to drill and weld a O2 bung in the header in the stock location and plug the other o2 bung in the header and then cut the extended wires off and soldered the wires back together and now with the O2 where it should be it works again... with no CEL light

not sure why your moven around... BUT just try to put it close to the stock location.... simply drill into the piping and buy a weldin O2bung from a exaust shop and have the bung welded inplace

 

i'm runnin an ebay highflow cat/test pipe, so my secondary sensor would throw a CEL anyway. All i need now is the resistor for the heater wire and i'll be all set on CEL's. Also, at the very least i'll put some silicone sealant insdie all of hte caps to seal moisture and hold hte cap on better, or else i'll just shrink wrap them.

Gene i know they sell resistors at hardware stores, but the this is what i'm gonna get:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-He...spagenameZWD1V

little more than a little tiny resistor although thats what i thought it would be before i saw an acutal pic