camber and toe

when you change ride height, you throw the alignment out of whack

 

You should have done your research and read up what to do before you screwed yourself. TAKE OUR ADVICE IF YOU DON'T WANT YOUR CAR TO BE A PIECE OF ****.

 

so how do i fix the crooked tire

 

get an alignment

 

exatly why you run the numbers before ya mod anything again....
you dont pull your exhaust manifold to add a turbo manifold before you buy everything else...
just take it as lesson learned run to your local junk yard and try to buy some stock springs to slap back on your car....
a full drop can cost around 1K depending on how much quality parts you buy...

 

i thought allignment was like if the car went straight or not not if the tire was slanted

 

O NO!!!!!!!! alignment has 3 points... one always adjustable on every vehicle is TOE on the front wheels and on solid rear axles, or all 4 wheels on a full coilover setup.

and then theres CAMBER which is the angle of the wheels angled inwards or outwards..
which typicaly needs a camber kit but not always on older vehicles that just use longer bolts and washers to correct camber.

then there is caster which is again is typicaly not adjustable but is adjustable on old cars.

all 3 things contribute to the car driving straight and returning to straight after turning...
and if toe is off from a drop it will still drive straight since BOTH wheels are pushing in oposite directions... so your drivers side pushes right and your passenger side pushes left so you go straight....

downfall is your tires will be destroyed within a month or two TOPS!

 

Are you talking like this (look at my rear wheel)?



If so, it's negative camber. Toe isn't as readily visible; you really won't see toe, you have to measure it. Negative camber won't destroy your tires, but toe will absolutely f**k them up.

 

i like my old rear camber more




hahahahaha

 

Alright, take this advice from the grand master of alignments (that's me)...

In order to ride at your ride height properly, you will need the following:

1. Buy either A. Full Coilovers from a reputable brand. OR B. Adjustable coilovers with reputable lowering struts. If you shop around, then it should cost you about $400-$700.

2. Depending on the desired ride height (which is probably around 3 inches for your case), you will need a front camber adjustment upper a arm. Skunk2 offers these with pretty good quality ball joints and bushings. That will run you about $150. For the rear, you will need a camber upper adjustment arm. The old washer trick will not work for your ride height safely. That will run an additional ~$100.

3. Before you install anything, read up on what all a suspension entails (i.e. seized bolts, cutting welded bolts, etc.) and get a torque wrench to properly reattach all of the bolts. Then install everything using the directions and set it at your desired ride height if it's adjustable. If you chose coilovers with dual adjustable points, make sure you preload the springs, if that is indeed what you want to do (probably not considering your position).

4. Set up an appointment before you install the suspension, that way there will be no waiting after you have it completed. Also be sure to ask if they can accomodate your vehicle with it's current ride height and ground clearance. Some shops have mobile setups, some have inground units (best), and others have ramps. This should cost anywhere from $40-$70 (or more) depending on the shop and their equipment.

No one said this is a cheap hobby. If you want cheap, go collect rocks or something.