Just like the title says, I've got a no start problem, and this one's got me stumped. Long story short, my brother in law, who is 17 and needs a car desperately buys a 1989 civic hatch with a D15B2 out of a 1990 civic with about 120k miles. Its a Cali car, so body looks great and all, I go with him for the test drive and it runs like a top. Virtually no valve noise, no leaks, new clutch, brakes, tires, water pump, timing and serpentine belt. Only issue with the car that we were aware of was that the car needed a new starter.

So we get the car home, I throw a new starter on and no dice. Find a bad starter relay, and since its 10pm and nobody I open, I bypass the relay (added my own fused connection and relay. Took starter signal from the switch, grabbed the starter wire in the kick panel) and the car turns over on the first try, and runs great.

Fast forward 2 days, I get a call and the car has stalled and won't start. I flat tow it to my garage and here is what I find:
-Car cranks but for the most part, will not turn over. On the rare occasion it does, it will run for a few seconds and then stall.
-All wiring I added before is functioning properly, no shorts or blown fuses
-Replaced all spark plugs,upon changing plugs I discover that all cylinders have some blow-by, although 3 &4 are the worst. All cylinders still show compression when tested.
-Removed and cleaned IAC valve with brake cleaner. Let air dry and reinstalled.
-Opened and closed EGR valve while attempting to start, no change.
-All fuses are good, although directional lamps and hazards are in-op.
-Main relay is functioning.
-CEL is on. Looked st the LED on the ECU, flashed 14 times prior to cleaning IAC valve, 10 times after.

I think that's about all the info I have at the moment. Dies anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty well stumped at this point and would appreciate any help I could get.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Pull up the hand brake. Watch the BRAKE light on the dash while trying to start. It should be on while cranking and after you let go of the key to run. If it doesn't stay on you likely have a bad ignition switch. Power for that light comes from the same circuit that runs the engine.

If it's a manual car the "starter relay" rarely goes bad but there's commonly trouble with the clutch switch. The rubber plug at the top of the clutch pedal arm that presses the button on the switch to allow starting only when the pedal is all the way down breaks and falls out. Then the switch doesn't get pressed and the car won't crank.

 

Since it was running then stall, would crank but doesn't start..

Check for sparks, could be coil or ignitor.

 

code 10 is Intake Air Temp Sensor
code 14 is IACV (which you've solved)

so the main relay clicks every time? you hear the fuel pump prime every time?
it might be worth re-flowing the solder joints in the main relay just in case. it's located behind the hood release lever.

 

I've got good spark, but I have yet to pull apart the distributor and clean the cap and rotor.

I'll also check the brake and clutch switch this evening. Thanks for the tips, and I'll post the results later.

also, original starter relay is confirmed bad, pulled it out and tested, switch does not function when voltage is applied across the relay

 

Ok, so here's the update;

-Brake light stays on during crank, so ignition switch is good
-Clutch switch looks good, jumped the wires just to double check, still no start
-Replaced the PCV valve, no change

Also, after taking a second look at the ECU, I've got a slightly different look. If I understand this correctly, there are 2 codes that are being registered. The first is Code 9 (No. 1 Cylinder Position), and a Code 14 (IAC Valve). Assuming that the code 9 is possibly the cause of the no start issue, what's the easiest way to test for this?

Thanks,

Chris

 

The OBD0 LED often blinks one short flash when the key is first turned on-- ignore it.

Then it will flash any codes as a continuous sequence of flashes of the same length. The number of flashes in the group is the code. It will flash a number of times, pause, do the same code again, pause, repeat for a third time, pause, do any other codes that are present the same way, and then repeat the whole thing for as long as the key is kept on.

If there are no codes the LED flashes only the possible short flash then stays off.

The clutch switch only disables the starter. If the starter turns it should start.

Check the fuel flow by disconnecting the return hose that connects the fuel regulator to the metal line on the left side of the firewall, which goes back to the gas tank. There should be a good stream of clean fuel out of the regulator when the pump is running.

 

Also, car is OBD0 and DPFI.......read that on the MPFI the sensor is on the distributor, but I can't seem to find any info on where to locate it for the DPFI.

 

A code 9 would be impossible on a DPFI. Only the MPFI had a cylinder 1 sensor.

 

You are correct, after reading a bit on how to read the LED flashes, here's what I have after the initial blink after turning the ignition on:

-10 Blinks - IAT Sensor, which shouldn't keep it from starting right?
-Pause
-16 Blinks - From what I've read, this is a fuel injector?
-Pause
-Repeat 10 blinks, pause, repeat 16 blinks

After taking the top of the intake off, I've got no fuel in or out of (what looks like) the fuel pressure reg on the right hand side of the intake.

I also opened up the EGR and and sprayed some choke cleaner in, and it rolls over for a moment when I do that, so it has to be an issue with the fuel.

I loosened both nuts on the fuel filter and I do have fuel coming out of both send and return lines when I turn the key.