i have a how can i say a little bit of everything in this car. and it has a ****ed up idle so it could be a fiasco of **** to sort out. but it was all done by me. so far its a D16A6 with a D16Y8 Intake Manifold, B18 throttle body and running OBD1 (P06 ECU) with a conversion harness i built. im at my ****ing wits end here with this. and gas prices are hiking up where i am so im being a tightass about my gas too lol. so this idle **** has got to go or something. ive even contemplated making a block off plate out of a aluminum coke can to sandwich between the IACV and the manifold. but the idle keeps surging high. then it drops then starts to come back up, drops. ****ing annoying as ****. but i did as the manual says and disconnected the iacv then set the idle to 750rpm. as soon as i plug the ****er back in idle surged up to 1500 / 1700rpm and kept jumping. even contemplated driving around with the ****er unplugged....
my ideas are

iacv is completely ****ed off??? any way to disassemble to check?
are the iacvs from the D15b7 the same as the iacv from a 96 Civic EX MT? as in electrically similar (theyre physically different but does it talk to the ecu the same way?)
ahwile back i looped up my coolant lines to delete coolant from going to the throttle body and the iacv, could that play a contributing factor?
old= intake mani > throttlebody > iacv >return to engine and now its looped at the manifold to the water pipe on the back of the block. im starting to think its the coolant lines to the iacv is the fault. because thats the only time i remember it happening is after i deleted those lines, before that i recalibrated my TPS on the TB. idk what do you guys think?

 

Idle speed is driven by readings from the ECT sensor. Make sure cooling system is full. Sensor can be checked with an ohmmeter, also check the TPS with a voltmeter. The reading at zero throttle is important. Adjust for 0.4 volts. Do not adjust for the wide open value.

The setup procedure is to unplug IACV and set the air screw for a low idle (450 rpm). Then plug in the IACV and idle should increase to the programmed value. Again though, if the ECU thinks that the engine is not warmed up, it will go to a fast idle.

I think all 2-wire IACVs are the same. Unplugging a good IACV makes it close completely, that is the same as having a blank off plate. You can confirm no flow through the IACV by blocking the air passage in the side of the throttle body before the throttle plate which leads to the IACV.