Well, looks like my oil pump gave out on my honda, the engine is making a great knock

Guess its time for a new engine, im looking for a CHEAP import place, but its hard to find a SPECIFIC model, i can find d15b's all day, but my question is, if i go to a slightly different model d15b6/5/4 etc, do i have to swap the ECU? I would like to just get a straight d15b7 and drop it in.

does anyone know of any good foreign engine places (IE low mileage 40k) i dont want to hit a junkyard for a 175k mile engine that is going to give me the same problems i have now.

if anyone has any totaled honda civic lx's with d15b7 i would be very interested in your engine.

thanks

D15B7

* Found in:
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic CX (Canadian model)
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic DX/LX
o 1993-1995 Honda Civic del Sol S
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic LSi Coupe (European Market)
+ Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 84.5 mm (3.0 in × 3.3 in)
+ Compression : 9.2:1
+ Power : 102 hp (76.1 kW, 103 ps) @ 6200 rpm
+ Torque : 98 ft·lbf (13.5 kg/m, 133 Nm) @ 3800 rpm
+ Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
+ Cam Gear: 38 Tooth
+ Piston Code : PM3
+ Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
+ ECU Code: P06

 

you can put any d" series engine in your civic it will be the same unless u get a vtec engine then all u have to do is get a vtec ecu and get it wired up. just get a block and head and put your intake manifold and stuff on it. if it comes from a 96-99 put ur old motor mounts on it everything is pretty much the same on all d" series engines.

 

The D series stuff is pretty interchangeable. Your head should still be OK; I think you can put it on just about any 1500 D series block (maybe even the D15B8 eight valve, the real dog that was in the American CX, but not sure about that) and drop it into the car without changing anything else.

I would strongly suggest buying used engines locally whenever possible. If it is no good you can go back and have the seller make it right. There are some people on the internet that mail-order sell absolute junk, knowing you won't be willing to pay to ship it back or come over there and throttle them in person.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

ended up ordering the following engine off ebay, richard is a couple of hundred miles from here, so if something is screwed up after my mechanic drops it in, i can pull it out and take it back to the dealer.

i hope this fixes all my crazy issues, and i can finally get have a 35mpg wagon

any suggestions on doing the swap? its going to be me my dad, my mechanic and a forklift, my mechanic thinks it will only be a few hours tops, any suggestions?

thanks

 

pics of said car?

 

Engine R&R is very straightforward. The only real trick is that you must remove the alternator or you won't be able to lift the engine/transmission out. Put the front of the car on jack stands and undo the lower ball joints then swing the wheels out to take the CV axles out of the transmission. No need to remove the axle nuts. If it's manual and you can't get the pin out of the shift linkage, take the linkage off back at the shift lever instead. If the car has A/C, unbolt the compressor from the engine but don't take any lines apart; the system can remain charged. Disconnect the exhaust at the front of the cat converter under the car. Take the engine out with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached.

You've really been driving this long with a rod knock? Sure it wasn't just valve adjustment?

 

@Nikehead: i plan on taking pics of the whole process, so you will see definitely see the car.

@mk378 this isnt my daily driver, i have a 2002 toyota tundra that is my primary work truck, but i would like to have the honda for road trips / vacations / groceries. the tundra gets 15 MPG. as far as the valve adjustment, you could be right, my dad was saying every single car he has ever had that throws a rod, is usually blowing oil, this one however isnt!

either way, i already bought the new engine :s so we will see.

-scribebox

 

started engine pulling today, pulling off all the wires, etc, any suggestions on the best point(s) to chain up the engine to pull it out? we are using a forklift, hopefully will be done with this project in a couple of days.

 

i usually hook them up at the front trans housing bolt and the alternator bracket bolt and pull them up.
you can also drop it out from the bottom (its a little easier). just make sure you remove the radiator and fans and stuff.

 

well, i got it out!, now its time to do some serious swapping of intake / exhaust and other random items.. more images to follow soon

EDIT: Also, for future reference, the engine has to come out at an angle, engine side first, then trans.