After Replacing the Spark Plug Wires all is fine now [IMG][/IMG].
Engine respond great now and erased the CEL with my AutoXray Code Scout Tool. CEL Stayed Off after driving around
where as before it would come on right away, and start blinking when I stepped hard on the gas, Plus engine would bogg down.
Great Tool for Quick code Diagnostics and clearing the check Engine Light.
AgentofDarkness thanks for all the input and help. It definitely helped.

 

How much did you get the scan tool for? I know that you can get this scan tool that hooks up to any laptop for around $150.00. We have one at school and it looks like it works pretty well, but i haven't used it too much. It gives sensor readings of all the sensor, readiness monitors, and graphs as well. And your welcome.

 

I bought it at Kragen for $159. There is a $20 rebate so final cost was $139. It just hooks up to the diagnostic port and will decode any of the codes tha are logged into the cars computer. It will also check to make sure that your car is ready for an emmissions test. I like it because it's about the size of a Multimeter (handheld) so it compact and fits in my Tool chest drawer.
I found a place online selling it for $114 which is a great price as the Mfg retail is $199. It works on all 96 and newer cars.
http://levineautoparts.com/codescout.html
It'll basically pays for itself if you use it twice. Last time I took my car in for a diagnostics of the check engine light (Toyota Dealer)
it cost me $100 just for them to tell me what was wrong. What a rip off. No more.

 

no, no, no. you dont put thread locker on the spark plugs, you put anti-seize on them. if you put thread locker you can rip out the aluminum threads when you remove them.

 

The stuff is called thread lock, they sell it in little packets at autozone. It says on the packet to put it on the threads. Maybe its some really light duty stuff?

 

weird. ive never seen thread-lock in the little packets, so its probably the same as the anti-seize, just packaged different. ill have to look at autozone today.

 

When i was refferring to the laptop scan tool, i was refferring to this. I like this type, because it doesn't just tell you the code, it allows you to see what the sensors are telling the PCM. This is very important if you plan to diagnose your own problems.

 

I usually don't put any kind of anti lock or thread seize on and never had a problem.
As for the diagnostic tool.
This is good for, like you say, more indepth diagnosis but, for just checking what triggered your Check Engine light, I like the hand helds. Plus you don't need a computer which adds cost to the tool. It appears to me that your basically buying the program from the company along with the cable to hook up betwen the cars diagnostic port and your computer. Good if you don't wanna buy one of the more expensive big shop diagnostic tools that can run in the 1K- 3K range. Looks pretty good though.

 

My dad gets laptops for super cheap from his company, so there usually isn't a shortage of laptops. I could prolly get a crappy one just fast enough to run that program for free. All i gotta do is free up the $150 to buy the tool, which isn't so easy.

 

Hey, I just created an account to let people know that I had the exact same problem as JAB1986, and found the answer I needed in this thread! 6 year old thread, but it's still helping people like me! This exact problem happened to my girlfriends car. Same codes were thrown and same engine shake and misfire. Cap and rotor and new plugs were put on, but to no avail. In the end, it was the plug wires that were the culprit. That pesky CEL is gone and the car runs great! Thanks for posting this guys! I hope it helps somebody else in the future just as much as it has helped me!