2000 Honda Civic A/C
#21
06-21-2011, 07:31 PM
BTW thanks to everyone for the help. This is both entertaining (Im genuinely interested in learning about car stuff) and helpful.
I've learned so much reading this forum from how to change a bumper, blower motor, and power window motors.
I've learned so much reading this forum from how to change a bumper, blower motor, and power window motors.
#22
06-21-2011, 08:13 PM
The relay would have to short out somehow, so it's doubtful, but it wouldn't be the first time something stupid like that could be the root cause of a problem.
Per Helms pg 22-33 you can check your compressor clutch coil with an ohmeter. The resistance (SADEN compressor) should be 3.05 to 3.35 ohm at 68deg F. that for DENSO compressor is 3.4 to 3.8ohm. I bet you'll read much lower ohms if you think the short is there.
By the looks of it, if you can rotate the armature plate, you're spinning the compressor shaft, so that means its not seized.
I suppose there's really nothing to lose by just changing out the AC field coil. If you have the Saden compressor it looks like you'll need a puller to get the pulley off...not sure you have the room for that with the compressor installed.
Per Helms pg 22-33 you can check your compressor clutch coil with an ohmeter. The resistance (SADEN compressor) should be 3.05 to 3.35 ohm at 68deg F. that for DENSO compressor is 3.4 to 3.8ohm. I bet you'll read much lower ohms if you think the short is there.
By the looks of it, if you can rotate the armature plate, you're spinning the compressor shaft, so that means its not seized.
I suppose there's really nothing to lose by just changing out the AC field coil. If you have the Saden compressor it looks like you'll need a puller to get the pulley off...not sure you have the room for that with the compressor installed.
#23
06-22-2011, 11:17 AM
Second, if the kits come with a new coil, go ahead and replace it. Replacing a relay is easy and so you should replace the other parts first. Because this is the summer, a/c shops will offer free diagnostics so you should be able to see if there is any refrigerant in it for free.
#24
06-22-2011, 03:10 PM
three things.
1. Is a clutch bearing included in the clutch kit?
2. I can remove the compressor without releasing the refridgerant right?
3. If there is pressure in my system does that mean there is no possibility of contamination? If there is no pressure does that mean there is a possibility of contamination and the compressor is bad?
1. Is a clutch bearing included in the clutch kit?
2. I can remove the compressor without releasing the refridgerant right?
3. If there is pressure in my system does that mean there is no possibility of contamination? If there is no pressure does that mean there is a possibility of contamination and the compressor is bad?
#25
06-22-2011, 04:05 PM
Ask the parts shop
NO, you can remove the clutch and the pulley but you cannot take out the compressor itself. That will release the refrigerant! That is why boiler and I were concerned about the tight space.
If the pressure is the correct amount, chances are, you are ok, if the amount is very low, then you definitely have a leak and contamination is very likely.
NO, you can remove the clutch and the pulley but you cannot take out the compressor itself. That will release the refrigerant! That is why boiler and I were concerned about the tight space.
If the pressure is the correct amount, chances are, you are ok, if the amount is very low, then you definitely have a leak and contamination is very likely.
#26
06-22-2011, 04:53 PM
1. Yes, a new bearing is part of the set, it will come already pressed into the new pulley.
2. From underneath the car, unbolt the compressor and lower it down-- without disconnecting the hoses. There is then space to work on the clutch.
3. It's a gamble...
2. From underneath the car, unbolt the compressor and lower it down-- without disconnecting the hoses. There is then space to work on the clutch.
3. It's a gamble...
#27
06-22-2011, 05:46 PM
I read this on yahoo answers about replacing the compressor. Its the main reason I dont want to replace the entire compressor because it seems more complicated.
The compressor comes out from the bottom but you have to do a lot to get to that point. Here's a recap of honda's instructions for the replacement of the compressor on that vehicle.
before you do that, be sure that your blower motor works. On Hondas of that vintage if the blower motor didn't work on all speeds it could prevent the compressor from working. So before you go taking everything apart, be sure the blower mtoor works.
Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable.
Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station.
Remove the front bumper.
Remove the right side headlight.
Remove the reserve tank from the bracket.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the three bolts securing the alternator
Remove the alternator.
Remove the A/C condenser fan assembly.
Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector (A), remove the bolts, then disconnect the suction line (B) and the discharge line (C) from the A/C compressor. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.
Remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor.
Install the A/C compressor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items
before you do that, be sure that your blower motor works. On Hondas of that vintage if the blower motor didn't work on all speeds it could prevent the compressor from working. So before you go taking everything apart, be sure the blower mtoor works.
Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable.
Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station.
Remove the front bumper.
Remove the right side headlight.
Remove the reserve tank from the bracket.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the three bolts securing the alternator
Remove the alternator.
Remove the A/C condenser fan assembly.
Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector (A), remove the bolts, then disconnect the suction line (B) and the discharge line (C) from the A/C compressor. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.
Remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor.
Install the A/C compressor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items
When I do get around to fixing this, Im going to document it all and post it online.
#28
06-22-2011, 07:31 PM
What would the right side headlight have to do with it? The compressor is on the left side of the car. Those instructions don't seem right. Maybe the 2000 is a lot different but on my '95 it was possible to loosen the idler pulley, slip the belt off, unplug the wire, take the plastic splash guard off the bottom and lower the compressor out.
Access to the compressor is a lot easier if you remove the condenser fan though.
Access to the compressor is a lot easier if you remove the condenser fan though.
#29
06-22-2011, 07:39 PM
What would the right side headlight have to do with it? The compressor is on the left side of the car. Those instructions don't seem right. Maybe the 2000 is a lot different but on my '95 it was possible to loosen the idler pulley, slip the belt off, unplug the wire, take the plastic splash guard off the bottom and lower the compressor out.
Access to the compressor is a lot easier if you remove the condenser fan though.
Access to the compressor is a lot easier if you remove the condenser fan though.
Next task is to find out if theres pressure in the system. Probably going to take it into a pepboys and ask them to check it out for me.
Theres a hardware shop nearby, Harbor Freight Tools, thats selling 2 3 ton jackstands for $12.99. I think Im going have to clip the coupon and walk my cheap @$$ on in there.
#30
06-23-2011, 07:10 AM
I wonder if the yahoo answers was from someone in the UK or someone who drives on the other side of the road. Isn't everything flipped in the cars?