'90 DX Won't Crank, Everything Checks OK So Far?
 

Hey all,
Ran fine, parked, swapped out instrument cluster for one with tach, tried to start, nothing. No ECU code, Lights on dash all on, CEL on for two seconds then off, Fuel pump humming, Fuses all check out, Starter Checks out, Main relay Checks out(replaced to test), Battery Checks out, Clutch safety Switch Checks out, I'm at a loss for what to do next. I drove all day yesterday with no problems. Once I swapped cluster and found it didn't work, I put it all back the way it was, and still the same thing, nothing. Not sure if cluster had anything to do with it or if it was coincidence. Wondering if it may be the ignition switch although there were no indications of it going out. The key is looking pretty worn, and it's the only one I received with the car. Any help is much appreciated.

thanks,

There is a fuse for the starter in the under dash fuse box; I'm not sure which one though. The black wire with white stripe, in the 4 wire plug from the key switch to the fuse box, should power up when you turn the key to start. If not, likely a bad key switch.

All fuses check OK, and there is power to starter fuse under dash when ignition is switched to position III.
I did roll out of the driveway and pop the clutch to get it going. Drove around town and back no problem. Parked in drive and still no start/no crank.
I made an appointment to get it into the local shop Tues. if no dice by then.
Thanks again.

How did you test the clutch switch? Unplug it and jump it? There is also a relay associated with the clutch switch (I think, at least a 92 to 95 has one.) If you're getting power to the fuse, but not to the small wire on the starter it would have to be the clutch lockout, there's nothing else in line. Unless there's an aftermarket alarm or kill switch.

Yes on the clutch safety, I haven't heard of a relay for the clutch or switch for this year, but I am checking into it now. No aftermarket alarm, or any alarm for that matter, and yes, there is power to the small wire going to the solenoid when the ignition is turned to position III. I checked the cables, and they're as clear as any that are that old and working that I have seen, and I did clean them more just to make sure. Took the starter in and had it bench tested. Worked fine all 10 times it was tried. Not under a load mind you, but I would expect even a click or something if it was trying in the car.

If you have power at the small wire on the solenoid, the starter should turn. Check that the connection is secure at the starter. Check the battery cables, especially the grounds. Test the starter in place on the car by jumping the small terminal to the battery +. Make sure it is not in gear and the brake set when you do that. If the starter doesn't turn when you do that, measure the voltage AT THE STARTER from the big terminal to starter ground while you jump the small wire again. If it has voltage and doesn't turn, bad starter.

I'm going out to check it all out. I'll get back to you as soon as I finish.

Thanks

Ok,
Volts @ +/- Batt. Term. = 12.47
Jumper from Pos. to small terminal on solenoid = nothing more than a click
voltage @ pos and neg of starter 12.43
voltage @ pos and neg of starter while jumping from pos of bat. to sm. terminal = .30 <--- is this considered voltage?
And this means?

You are not getting voltage from the battery to the starter all the time. It could be in the power or the ground side, or the battery itself. Measure at the battery (on the lead posts, not the terminal clamps) while jumping the starter and make sure it stays up. If not, battery is run down or defective.

If battery voltage under load is OK, measure from the battery (-) lead post to starter ground while jumping, this voltage should stay near zero. If it goes up to volts, that means there is an open in the ground side; usually it is where the terminal clamp clamps onto the battery. Do the same thing with the live wire, from + lead post to the big terminal on the starter.

Ok, took starter off just in case you said it was bad due to .30 being voltage or not. Tried jumping to make sure I had good connection before checking volts, and it cranked. tried again and back to the clicking noise, I am continuing with the tests and will get back to you with the results in 15 mins. or thereabout.

And the results are in:
Battery stayed up, went from 12.4 down to 11.9 and stopped.
From Neg battery post to neg on starter, from 0 to 11.something
From Pos battery post to pos on starter, Stayed at 0
An open in the negative cable, what exactly does that mean, and what do I do about it.
Replace the negative cable from battery to wherever it may end?

Starter is probably not bad. It doesn't get any voltage, that's why it doesn't work. There is a bad connection somewhere else on the car.

Yes there is an open in the negative cable. Usually it is right at the battery post because the terminal is not secure. You can narrow down by measuring the voltage across each connection. Start from the - lead post to the terminal clamp. The cable goes down and connects to the frame of the car then it goes over and connects to the transmission. This last connection is what returns the power from the starter. Again, test across each connection under load and see if there is a voltage, which means a bad connection.

I'm on it, I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks

Zero at clamp on post, zero at body connection, and .0something at engine connection. Pulled whole ground and will replace with better or new in the morning. All connections were solid. Not sure if that mattered.

Put new cable on, and still same symptoms.

It could be that the bracket the cable attaches to is rusted and / or loose and not in good electrical contact with the transmission itself.

The voltage is being lost somewhere, need to check each little part of the circuit.

Moved from trans. bracket to exhaust manifold on clean bolt/nut, and still getting .01 on volts. Each little part of the circuit? Do you mean at the clamp and body and transmission connections? Sorry for not understanding. One time last night it did crank ever so briefly. Could it be the solenoid, or the starter? You said if while jumping to small terminal on solenoid from pos. on battery and measuring the voltage at the pos. starter terminal, and neg. solenoid terminal, if there was voltage, but did not turn, that was an indicator of a bad starter. I did measure it and it started at 12.47volts and went down to .3 which is still volts, or did you mean constant 12 or 11 volts.
I really appreciate all the help your giving me with this.

Negative on the starter is the frame ground. The other large terminal on the solenoid, that leads to a wire that goes inside the starter, is not negative or ground. It is power for the motor. If you have power there (relative to starter ground) and the starter is not turning, (and the engine is not seized), you have a bad starter.

Woooohooooooo!
 

That's what I'm talking about. Like thinking the other terminal on the solenoid was the ground. When looking at the pdf of the starter system I thought that it showed the one that went from solenoid to starter was labeled "M" which on a previous page was the ground. Anyway, I took the starter in and got a new one, and it started right up. I guess if I had owned this car for some time I might have noticed the starter giving some indications of going out. Story of my life, always making things harder than they actually are. I would like to tell you thanks for your time, but that seems so petty. I am so thankful for this forum and members like you who give help.