I'm new to Hondas but not to cars in general but this @#!&% car is driving me insane ! Car starts, then won't start for long periods.Weather is Not a factor. I have checked battery & terminals(OK)-I've replaced: 1:fuel filter, 2:fuel pump, 3:injectors(pricey!), 4: Main relay resoldered and tested for continuity(OK). At this point,I gave up and towed car to local shop where they said it was distributor. Replaced that, car ran for 1 week(350 miles) then crapped out again.Towed back to shop where mechanic put key in a.m. and car started, ran 10-15 min.,crapped out. They put 2nd distributor in to no avail. Still won't start. The mechanic said there's NO spark. I don't think distributor was the problem, spent $400-for nothing at this shop so far and still don't have a running car ! What can I do next ? By the way, I could not find the 2 wire (or 3 wire) plug above ECU anywhere so I couldn't bridge it to get any code from the CEL,which seems to operate normally in any case...Does anyone have a clue to what's wrong here ?

 

At the current time, when the engine won't start:

1) Does the starter crank the engine?

2) Do you hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON(II)?

3) Do you have strong bright bluish spark at all four plugs?

If the engine cranks but there is neither fuel priming nor spark, check the important ground wire attached to the thermostat housing. It may be loose or corroded, preventing good electrical contact. If so, clean the contact points with sand paper or steel wool and then reconnect tightly.

Regarding the service connector used to retrieve CEL codes, look higher up above the ECU. Also follow the main ECU wire harness from which the connector branches. (click the CEL link in my signature for pictures)

 

RonJ...Thank you Starter cranks well, fuel pump primes...At this point, because car is at the mechanics shop, I don't know about spark at the plugs. One odd thing,however, is that before, when all worked well,the starter cranked slower than it does now...While cranking, if I put my foot down on the gas pedal, it seemed to be turning over even faster...Don't know if thats indicative of anything, just a consistent occurence that I noticed. Mechanic called me and said he'd pulled the alarm system out completely but it didn't make any difference.He then said he was going to check ignition wiring to try to find any "break" that might be intermittently working/not working. Sorta makes sense but I think I should maybe start looking for a more competent mechanic before I go broke...I'll post anymore developments tomorrow, Thank you

 

Sometimes it is the key switch. You can tell by looking at the oil and battery lights on the dash - they should be on (at least the oil will stay on at first) while cranking the engine. A slightly more sophisticated test is to check for voltage reaching the distributor with the key on, and while cranking.

 

Given that the specific problem appears to be lack of spark and that the distributor has already been replaced, then I recommend that the igniter input tests shown in the diagram below be done when there's no spark at the plugs.

 

Just some fyi . I went around the world chasing one of these issues . 2 relays 2 ecus . 2 distributors 3 coils 3 icus. 8 injectors all the basic things to check. Timing belt, Timing , Well after i checked one of the GUys from jei came over and checked also . Neither could figure out . Come to find out the cruise unit under the driver side dash was faulty send erractic signals thru everything. Unplugged it threw over in corner and bam fired off and ran fine. For as the crank issue with gas held wide open. It cranks faster because you have washed you cylinders down with fuel . Smell your oil and it will have gas smell. To reseal rings remove injectors power, the tops connectors remove plugs drop 3 to 4 drops of atf in each cylinder .Replace plugs . Spray some starter fluid in the intake. Have guy standing ready with fire extingusher for when it seals and back kicks thru intake . You will notice its has compression and hard to turn over now. . Check all wiring including ecu. Not all the time will the spark fuel compression solve the problem .

 

It cranks faster because the throttle is open. No vacuum in the intake.

Hondas of recent memory will shut off injectors when you crank the starter with the gas pedal floored. Thats a feature to clear a flooded engine, programmed into the ECU. In fact, Honda is not the only one to do that.

 

Thank you, all of you who tried to help me..The problem was finally solved by tracing wiring in the ignition system. An aftermarket alarm system had been tied into some wires under the dash, near the key switch and was shorting out (on&off) some of the wires. Also, the main relay, which I had checked and resoldered, went bad and had to be replaced. all is running well at this point,finally. Again, thanks to all !

 

Back to square one (@#&&*!!$#) Same problem back within a week...Car wouldn't start again Sunday night..and then did...Got it home from work but dead on Mon.am... Back to the shop. By the way, when they replaced the distributer (twice), it came with the coil,etc. as a unit.This time, the Main Relay (newly replaced last time) seems to be clicking rapidly as the engine is cranking over...Also, there is no spark...And, this likely doesn't matter but..who knows? while it's cranking, both the speedometer and odometer are in action! With 30 secs of cranking, it says it has gone 1/10th of a mile at 5-15 mph...Obviously, the mechanic hasn't got a clue because besides not fixing my Civic, they also have a later model Honda in their shop with the same type of starting problem.Anyway, hopefully someone here has a clue...Renwar47

 

Make sure the alarm wiring has been undone properly and the stock wires are spliced back together securely.

Check your grounds. Besides the big ground wire from the battery to the frame and the engine (when frame ground is not the same as engine ground, bad things happen), there are about 4 small wires connected to the thermostat housing. These ground everything related to the sensors and ECU. If you lose those you will get the speedometer jumping up, etc.